
critic reviews
The Giacomo Conterno 2018 Barolo Francia has opened beautifully since I last tasted this wine at the winery two years ago. It was closed back then (no surprise since I tasted it as an unfinished sample), but with the distance of time, the wine has blossomed to show blackcurrant, cassis, aniseed, blue flower and pencil shaving. The Francia is known for its magical combination of power and nuance, both delivered with seamless intensity. This vintage offers a savory component with hints of toasted spice or spent ember. The tannins are fine and polished.
The 2018 Barolo Francia is powerful, deep and also a touch austere. It shows the edginess of all the 2018s, but also has a feeling of textural creaminess that adds tons of character. Spice, menthol, leather and a whole range of balsamic overtones build into the deep, imposing finish. Roberto Conterno decided to forego his Barolo Monfortino in 2018, opting instead to blend all the casks into his Francia bottling. When that happens, Francia often surprises down the road. That could very well turn out to be the case here.
The 2018 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Francia is very densely concentrated with fine tannins but it is not revealing much yet as it is so young. When tasted in May 2022 it was due to be bottled the following month. It is deep ruby in color with perfumed violet and freesia aromas on the nose, with oak spice notes. The tannins are firm but beautifully refined as you would expect from this producer. At the moment, the wine is like a beautiful statue, immaculately carved and pristine but not revealing very much. Roberto Conterno felt this wine needed 18 months before approaching and that it will last for 40 years.
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