Bordeaux 2022: Chateau Pichon Comtesse

A visit to Pichon Lalande is always one of the highlights of our primeurs trips. Since Nicolas Glumineau arrived from Montrose, each year we witness an ever more refined style of Comtesse. This is perhaps best demonstrated this year by the Pichon Comtesse Reserve – one of the most texturally alluring second wines we’ve ever tasted. In truth, it has all the qualities of a grand vin, such is its aromatic complexity, lavish fruit and beautifully worked tannins. It’s a glorious wine that will end up in many staff cellars…

Splendid as the Reserve is, the Pichon Comtesse reaches an altogether different level. More backward and reserved, this requires a bit of concentration (from the taster). A more cerebral, tightly wound specimen, it takes a while to open up, but when it does one is greeted with classical, cool Pauillac aromas, followed by a palate full of detailed and luxuriantly textured fruit. There’s no doubt that Pichon Comtesse is one of the greatest wines in the Medoc at the moment and the 2022 is a must buy for any serious Bordeaux collector.

“The 2022 Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is one wine where a comparison with this estate's magical 1982 doesn't appear to be far-fetched. Wafting from the glass with deep aromas of cassis, plums, violets, rose petals, tobacco leaf and pencil shavings, it's full-bodied, supple and fleshy, with a layered, seamless core of fruit that largely conceals its chassis of powdery structuring tannin. Concluding with a long, expansive and beautifully perfumed finish, it's a blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc that has the potential to equal or even surpass the 2019 and 2016 vintages at this address. It checks in at a very classical 13.6% alcohol and a rather high pH of 3.80. 97-99/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

“The 2022 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande was picked 6 to 27 September at 30hL/ha, the drought chipping away so that one-third was eventually lost. This has 13.65% alcohol and pH of 3.80. There is 17.5% pressed wine, the highest ever. This has a subtle bouquet, not understated but it unfurls in the glass (unlike others that explode.) Blackberry and cedar, light touches of mint, a hint of dark chocolate. The palate is medium-bodied with a velvety texture with lovely balanced, gentle but insistent grip, slightly granular as it fans out with black fruit, cedar and light graphite notes. This is a very suave Pichon-Lalande that will age with style. 2029-2065. 96-98” – Neal Martin, vinous.com