Bordeaux 2022: The wines of François Mitjavile

Probably Bordeaux’s most idiosyncratic and singular wine, Tertre Roteboeuf commands a legion of devoted followers. François Mitjavile, the maverick winemaker behind this legend, defies convention with his unique philosophical approach to winemaking.

As ever, François’ stamp speaks more vociferously than the vintage. This is classic Tertre Roteboeuf with lashings of exotic fruit, spices and liberal use of Radoux barrels. There is also a purity and intensity to the fruit, which suggests a long and distinguished future ahead. The two wines from the Cote de Bourg also carry the Mitjavile flag with pride. Roc de Cambes as ever is a chip off the old block – a wine of great power and potential. Domaine de Cambes, from the lower slopes near the river, is silky, floral and easy – a wine with immediate charm.

Alas, production of Tertre Roteboeuf is miniscule this year. We have decided to offer the grand vin tied 1:2 with Roc de Cambes. I.e., to buy 6 bottles of Tertre, you have to buy 12 bottles of Roc.

“Both the suavest and the most exotic cuvée in the Mitjaville portfolio, the 2022 Le Tertre Roteboeuf is a full-bodied, supple and fleshy wine evocative of blackberries, espresso roast, rose petals, spices and smoked meats. Concentrated, refined and seamless, it concludes with a long, aromatic finish. Readers might think of it as a cousin of the 2009 vintage, with its sweetness of fruit but rather ethereal, harmonious profile, which stands in contrast with more overtly powerful years, such as 2020 or 2010. 95-97/100” – William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

“The 2022 Tertre-Rôteboeuf is very deep in color. It has a very intense bouquet with Dorset plum, raspberry coulis, touches of fennel and fresh fig. Fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with plenty of structure, pure mulberry, blackberry and raspberry fruit, white pepper and curry leaf. It is a more exotic Saint-Émilion, but I would not describe it as exotic. It's just very Tertre-Rôteboeuf ! 2030-2060. 95-97/100” – Neal Martin, vinous.com