Bordeaux 2023: Mouton Rothschild, Clerc Milon & d’Armailhac

6 May 2024

The 2023 Baron Philippe de Rothschild range is the finest we have tasted.

Under the leadership of the supremely talented Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy, d’Armailhac and Clerc Milon have a newfound precision, combining redolent aromatics with gorgeous purity of fruit. They are both captivating Pauillacs. D’Armailhac is a silky, seductive offering, which will provide much drinking pleasure in just a few years’ time, while Clerc Milon delivers Moutonesque character at a fraction of the price. If you won’t take our word for it, see Neal Martin’s note below!

Mouton Rothschild clearly shares a familial link, but here you have a wine with enormous potential and serious gravitas. One can admire the purity of fruit and sheer refinement, however, do not be deceived, this is a deep, thought-provoking, profound wine that requires patience. Beautifully constructed, the lavish tannins provide an architecture straight from the High Renaissance. This is simply glorious, and a wine that all Mouton fans will want in their cellars.

As you have probably noticed, these wines have been released on a UK bank holiday. We expect we’ll need to allocate, so please place your orders through the links below or via your Account Manager and we will confirm tomorrow.

Château Mouton Rothschild 2023

The 2023 Mouton Rothschild was picked from September 7 to 30 and contains 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, the second highest ever (after the 2010). Matured entirely in new oak as usual, this has an intense, floral bouquet with violet petals infusing the black fruit and touches of licorice loitering just off stage—very fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with extremely refined tannins. Focused and harmonious, it’s velvety smooth with a long and tender finish that has more crispness than the 2022. In fact, I might ultimately end up preferring this over the 2022…it will be interesting finding out in the future!- 96-98 Points, Neal Martin, Vinous

High Cabernet, and the grape is dominant not just in blend but character, totally delicious, with tension, flesh, and confidence, building layers of black fruits, graphite, cocoa bean, espresso, pomegranate and smoked earth throughout the palate. When Cabernet works at Mouton, it is hard to beat, and it's on full display in 2023. One of my clear wines of the vintage. Of any vintage. 100% new oak for ageing. 40% grand vin, harvest September 7 to 30.- 98-100 Points, Jane Anson, janeanson.com

Le Petit Mouton 2023

The 2023 Le Petit-Mouton is fabulous. It could easy be a Grand Vin at another address. Rich, ample and beautifully resonant in the glass, the 2023 impresses with its notable palate presence. Dark red cherry, pomegranate, cinnamon, rose petal and new leather are some of the many notes that build. The 2023 is seriously impressive. Wow! 2027 – 2043.- 93-95 Points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous

Château Clerc Milon Rothschild 2023

The 2023 Clerc Milon was picked from September 7 to 29 and is matured in 55% new oak. It has much more fruit concentration on the nose than the Pastorelle—quite precocious, with blackberry and cassis fruit. It's floral and more flamboyant than the d'Armailhac. The palate is very well balanced with a slightly creamy texture and a lovely mouthfeel. Its concentration is neatly counterbalanced by the acidity, and it feels very harmonious and long on the finish. Superb. If Mouton-Rothschild is beyond your budget—yes, I am familiar with that feeling—then this is where you should look.- 92-94 Points, Neal Martin, Vinous

Pauillac was close to normal rainfall, with less mildew than other parts of the region, helping to usher in the excellent crop of wines that you will find in the appellation in 2023. This joins the best of them with its superb quality, and a real sense of excitement and drive. Expect vivacity and tension in the blue and black fruits, with liqourice root, squid ink, salted cracker, white pepper spice and freshly cut herbs. September 7 to 29 for harvest, 55% new oak barrels for ageing. Carmanère dating from 1947 is in this 1st wine, with the massal selection descendents in Pastourelle. Caroline Artaud director.- 96 Points, Jane Anson, janeanson.com

Château d'Armailhac 2023

The 2023 d'Armailhac is an attractive effort, bursting with aromas of cherries, raspberries, licorice and cigar wrapper. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and succulent, with a pretty core of fruit, sweet powdery tannins and lively acids, it's a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot—which is a rather high percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon for this address.- 92-93 Points, William Kelley, Wine Advocate

High Cabernet, as is the story of the vintage on the Left Bank. A wine that also continues the new story of Armailhac following serious investment in vineyards and cellar, and technical director Lucie Lauilhé. Bright and vivid from the first moment, layered cassis, crushed mint, liqourice root, crushed rocks, an excellently precise, structed and textured Armailhac. Love it. Harvest September 7 to 30. 80ha in production, 50% new oak barrels for ageing.- 94 Points, Jane Anson, janeanson.com

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