Bordeaux 2024: Château Pontet Canet

After a period of irregular performance, we’re glad to say that Pontet Canet is back to its best. The 2023 was a very pleasant surprise, and the Tesserons have backed this up with an excellent 2024. As one of the pioneers of the biodynamic movement in Bordeaux, the team here has learnt to master the threat of mildew. A record 31 treatments were made during the spring – a massive undertaking, but the reward was a healthy crop harvested in early October.

Vulgar as it may sound, the 2024 campaign will be determined by one thing alone, price. We need to return to the basic premise of en primeur – that consumers get the best possible price, i.e. 2024 has to be cheaper than any physical vintage. Although in our view 2024 is a better wine than 2019, 2020 and 2021, it has been released at £360 per 6, which is more expensive than those three physical vintages. We hope this won’t be the trend for other releases…

Pontet Canet turned a corner last year with what we thought was the best effort since the magnificent 2010. We’re pleased to report that wasn’t a flash in the pan, the 2024 is another strong showing. As early adopters of biodynamic principles, the team at Pontet has had to become adept at dealing with mildew pressures. It must have been challenging in 2024, but they succeeded and have produced a fine Pauillac. They bled 10% of the tanks and used a touch of chaptalisation. Otherwise, it was quite a normal vinification resulting is a reserved bouquet of sweet griotte, wildflowers and an abundance of bright cherry fruit. The sweet-fruited profile is beautifully balanced with judicious, powdery tannins that enhance and elongate the fruit's natural vibrancy. A good effort. Produced from 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot and 1% Cabernet Franc.

“Vibrant ruby in colour with violet edging, this is beautifully measured, with a careful release of black fruits. Puts the focus on the floral side of Cabernet Sauvignon, with rose petals, chamomile, fragrant tomato leaf and lilac. There is austerity on the opening, with tight architecture but as it opens juice begins to flow through the pumice and slate-textured tannins, and this delivers a finessed, slim-style of Pauillac, with plenty of ageing potential and quiet confidence. One of the successes of the vintage. Harvest September 26 through to October 11. 3.8ph, 50% new oak, 35% concrete amphoras. Tasted twice. 2032-2046. 94/100” – Jane Anson, JaneAnson.com