New Release: Thibaud Boudignon’s stellar Savennieres

There are no two ways about it; these are some of the most exciting whites being made in France today.

We’ve been buying Thibaud Boudignon’s wines since his very first vintage in 2009. I can vividly remember tasting the first bottles in the cellar at 61 St. James’s Street. It was one of those “AHA”, hairs-on-the-back-of-the-neck moments when you know you are in the presence of a vigneron with a vision for Chenin Blanc that aligns perfectly with our love of the variety’s racy, crystalline side.

Not long afterwards we found ourselves in Thibaud’s tiny winery beneath his home. Today, the house is still his, but the winery now overlooks Clos de la Hutte in La Possonnière – a village prized for its extreme schist soils. The vineyards in Savennieres have all been developed and planted by Thibaud himself. Since replanting the historic Clos de la Hutte in 2011, he has restored and created other prestigious plots: Vigne Cendrée, Clos de Frémine, and most recently Clos Devant le Jeu. Each has been established with massale selections from some of the Loire’s greatest domaines – a project of remarkable foresight and conviction.

If the early wines leaned towards the ascetic – taut, pure, and sometimes a little forbidding – the recent vintages show a gentler side. As Thibaud says, “they smile a little more.” They remain crystalline, chiselled and defined, but now carry more fruit, charm, and accessibility – and all while keeping alcohol between 11.5% and 12.5%. It is a rare balancing act.

“His attention to detail in the winemaking process, precise viticulture, dedication and passion for the terroirs mark him as one of France’s foremost vignerons and winemakers today.” Yohan Castaing, Wine Advocate

The 2023s and 2022s offered here prove just how complete his style has become; the combination of intensity and finesse is scintillating. These are wines that can hold their own among the very best being made anywhere across France today.

Anjou Blanc 2023 – The domaine’s calling card and largest cuvée. Fermented and raised in carefully chosen barrels and demi-muids, this is pure Boudignon: crystalline and vibrant, but also generous and charming in 2023.

À François(e) 2022 – From the stony vineyard of Les Gats, made exclusively from free-run juice. About a third of the wine is raised in large fuders, which lend freshness and precision. This is the most open and expressive François(e) we have seen, yet it retains its hallmark extract and deep minerality.

Clos de Frémine 2023 – Planted in 2016 just below Clos de la Hutte, this south-facing schist dominated site basks in maximum sunshine. The wine is always elegant, often touched with exotic yellow fruit. The 2023 has beautiful fine lines, ripe acidity and luminous precision.

Vigne Cendrée 2022 – Thibaud’s smallest parcel, on schist with more clay, producing structured, powerful wines. Aged entirely in fuders, the 2022 has sculpted fruit, lemon zest and honeyed stone. A muscular wine, yet with a salty, mouth-watering finish.

Clos de la Hutte 2022 – The jewel of the domaine, regarded by many as Savennières’ other Grand Cru alongside Roche aux Moines. Here finesse, minerality and body converge in perfect harmony. Thibaud calls it “the tiger that strokes” – length, intensity and power delivered with grace.

Jules Campbell

Buying Director