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Rosé, but not as you know it.
Gone are the days of blending away poor white and red into a barely acceptable rosé. The category is now replete with big hitters, using very old vines, meticulously selecting the best grapes with optical sorters, cold soaked macerations, battonage and saignée methods. Rosé is no longer a cheap alternative to proper wine; it is proper wine. Nothing demonstrates this better than Garrus and Les Clan, the top two cuvées from the Bordeaux (and now Provence) maverick Sacha Lichine, who purchased Château d’Esclans in 2006 and brought the inimitable Whispering Angel to the world.
Garrus is the big brother of the range and is farmed from a small four-hectare plot of old vines (many surpassing 100 years) at the highest point of the estate. It is a blend of Grenache and Rolle (Vermentino). On the nose, strawberries and nectarines abound with dried citrus flecks and glazed apple; vanilla oak spice and just a touch of pastry dough are a lovely addition from long battonage. This is widely considered the epitome of what rosé can be, quintessentially Provençal in style but with enough weight and body to be cellared. A truly gastronomic rosé that is beautiful on its own, but which comes into its element when paired with salads, fish and white meats.
While Garrus is stately and ethereal, Les Clan is the joyful younger sibling. Made from the same DNA and a with a similar structure and blend (predominantly Grenache and a small amount of Rolle), it is more intense, bombastic and immediate than Garrus. The vines of Les Clan are between 50-55 years old and this is reflected in the wine, with a tropical and exuberant feel. Wild strawberries and cream are allied to sweet peaches and baked citrus fruits; cantaloupe melon and just a hint of guava accompany hazelnut, vanilla, and nutmeg spice. The texture is enveloping and round, but cut with judicious acidity and freshness.
Château Galoupet was a once prestigious Provence estate, but fell into disrepair. However, in 2019, with investment from Moët Hennessy and the passion and vision of Jessica Julmy, it was revitalised and reborn as an environmental champion. It also happens to make superb rosé from its 69 hectares of vineyards which are planted with Grenache, Syrah, Tibouren, Rolle and Cinsault. The 2025 has a beautifully waxy texture and a fleshy fruit profile. Classic berry fruits of strawberry and raspberry awaken the senses. On the palate there is tropical mango, red grapefruit and blood orange. Salted lemons, almond and white flowers linger long on the finish.
Those that think rosé is just a summer drink, or a poor substitute for good white wine, have clearly never tried Garrus, Le Clan or Galoupet.
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