Rhys 2021s – Antonio Galloni’s Winery of the Year

In their third decade of production, Kevin Harvey and Jeff Brinkman are flying. With fully established vineyards, a keen understanding of the challenges and opportunities of each site, and a thoughtful, un-dogmatic and light touch approach in the winery, they appear to be reaching peak sensibility. The ease with which they commune with each of their sites is so easy see in this range of 2021s, it is no wonder Antonio Galloni singled it out as his winery of the year, stating “I tasted many memorable wines this year, but one range stands out. The 2021s at Rhys are off the charts.”

The Chardonnays have impeccable balance, wonderful intensity and great precision and energy. If you enjoy the whites of Domaine Leflaive or Paul Pillot, the shape of these wines should feel familiar. The Pinot Noirs in 2021 are magnificent and will undoubtedly repay cellaring. The shatter at flowering led to loose clusters with lots of tiny grapes, which has instilled the final wines with layers of flavour and structure that will stand these wines in great stead as they age. We have not tasted a more serious, complex and impressive range.

Yet another drought year, 2021 experienced moderately warm to hot temperatures but crucially never faced any serious heat events. Yields were down, due to the poor flowering, and harvest came early. Seeing the potential, Jeff chose to ferment slightly cooler than usual, with gentler foot treading, and practically all press wine sold off in bulk. Just as up in Napa, the resulting 2021s have a natural concentration allied to freshness. Those lucky enough to own them will have a terrific time following them over the coming years and decades.