Laroque 2014 & Branaire Ducru 2012/2014 – Superb Clarets from Either Side of the Gironde

We all get excited about the trophy vintages from Bordeaux. 2005, 2010, 2016 have enduring appeal, wines that will age effortlessly, full of power, tannic structure and concentration. However, these bottles require patience… For those who lack perseverance, or just want some excellent claret in the interim, the less celebrated growing seasons offer both value and lots of early drinking pleasure. Recent tastings of 2012, 2014, 2017 and 2021 have reaffirmed just how good these so called “lighter” vintages are. We love the purity of fruit, the exceptional balance, the moderate alcohols and the graceful tannins. The exuberant, plush, Merlot dominant Laroque 2014 from St-Emilion and the understated and demur Cabernet dominant Branaire Ducru 2012 and 2014 from St Julien are perfect examples. Whilst stylistically poles apart, these wines demonstrate the benefits and appeal of the more modest Bordeaux vintages.

Laroque 2014 - This classy St Emilion estate always over delivers for its price. It is well known for being statuesque, full bodied and opulent, but in a cooler vintage, like 2014, it displays more subtlety and grace. Lucious dark cherry, plum, all spice, liquorice, and menthol flavours are joined by early signs of leather, tobacco and forest floor. These flavours combine to make this a supreme pairing for beef and game dishes or enjoyed with a massive wedge of Black Bomber.

Branaire Ducru often flies below the radar, having built a reputation for being understated but classy. Never one to push levels to excess, they like to deliver pretty, delicate and pure drinking clarets. Always food friendly, of course, but these wines are also perfect to drink on their own in front of the fire, this festive season. Crisp red berry fruit appears on both the 2012 and 2014 with plum, Cassis and a floral lilt. There is lovely garrigue and dried herbs, minerality and fallen leaves too, piqued by a delicate olive brine on the 2012 and ground pepper on the 2014. Try these with Turkey on the big day or cold cuts on the 26th, a roast turkey sandwich with cranberry sauce and a good crack of black pepper will sing with these beauties.