A Guide to Top Value Burgundy

There’s no denying that the best Burgundy wines are expensive. Indeed Grand Cru Burgundy has become almost a by-word for luxury, with the most coveted Burgundy wines celebrated not just for their exceptional quality, but for their status among the most coveted cuvées in the wine world.  

There are various reasons why the top wines of Burgundy are so expensive. The most significant is the quantity of such wines – or rather the lack of it. Consider the average annual output of a Bordeaux first growth such as Château Lafite, which produces around 20,000 cases of its grand vin alone. Then take that of arguably Burgundy’s most revered name, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, which makes barely a third as much (in a good year – production is much more unpredictable in Burgundy’s more variable climate) – spread over eight different grand-cru wines. Limited quantity and exceptional quality are a combination that only increases demand, and while only the most deep-pocketed collectors are able to regularly invest in DRC, its model is typical of most top-end Burgundy estates. As a result, the trickle-down effect is such that this same scarcity and demand contribute to Burgundy's reputation for luxury and exclusivity across the whole wine market.

The style of Burgundy – both red and white – is also a contributing factor to its punchy price tags. Burgundy’s climate is marginal, with winemakers increasingly walking a tightrope in the face of climate change. Warmer winters trick vines into early development, meaning they are more susceptible to a sudden, disastrous spring frost which can decimate the year’s crop. Wetter conditions make the threat of mildew more rampant in the vineyard (a particular problem in a region where organic growers, who are limited in the measures they can take to mitigate such disease, have traditionally been more widespread). And the prevailing warmer temperatures are counter-productive when it comes to harnessing the subtle, haunting flavours for which the delicate, thin-skinned Pinot Noir, in particular, is known. Any or all of these conditions can not only impact the quality of the wine, but also the quantity, with frosts and rain dramatically impacting yields in years such as 2021 and 2024.

As a result, Burgundy’s vineyards require meticulous care, further contributing to their higher cost. Burgundy's rich history and celebrated terroirs, meanwhile, only further enhance the region's status as a luxury wine. While Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are grown the world over, few – if any – regions can boast the haunting, savoury, ageworthy flavours offered by the particular climats of Vosne Romanée, Chambolle-Musigny or Montrachet. The subtlety and complexity of these wines, and the nuance of the sensory differences between them offer an intellectual element to their appeal that is hard to find elsewhere, only increasing demand from wine enthusiasts worldwide.

But not all Burgundy is expensive. And, even at more rarified levels, it is possible to hunt out more affordable Burgundy. By this, it should be made clear, we don’t necessarily mean cheap. The hierarchy of Burgundy wines mean that it’s rare to find bargains among the upper echelons. But good-value Burgundy does exist, taken within the context of what is one of the world’s premier wine regions.

As a reminder, wines in Burgundy are classified not by producer but by vineyard, with the latter often split between several growers. And while the reputation (and prices) of these growers can vary, grand cru wines are grand cru for a reason, and tend to be priced accordingly. The next tier down, however – premier cru – offers more flexibility, with some crus more fashionable than others. It also offers a greater quantity, and therefore opportunity for finding some hidden gems within this.  

On the whole, seeking out less renowned appellations – even down to ‘village’ (wines from a particular appellation, but not a classified vineyard) and generic (wines drawn from across Burgundy as a whole) level – can bring reward. Even the very best producers still make wines at village or generic level – take Etienne Sauzet and Domaine De Montille’s Bourgogne Blancs, or Jean Grivot and Georges Roumier’s Bourgognes Rouges – which are often markedly superior to similarly ranked wines from their counterparts. While large-scale generic Bourgogne can be blended across the whole region, the top producers tend to only have vines in or close to their home village, meaning the components are concentrated around such prestigious appellations.

By the same token, some crus and regions are more reputed as a whole, which ignores the fact that it is possible for lesser producers to produce mediocre wines in such spots and – more importantly – top-end domaines to make above-average wines from terroirs that boast less cachet. As Jancis Robinson MW says, ‘The wisest advice for those trying to squeeze value out of the Côte d’Or is to seek out a combination of the less famous appellations and the most adept producers in them’.

Among the most obvious examples of the former, Robinson suggests the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits and Hautes-Côtes de Beaune, Beaune itself, St-Aubin, St-Romain, Monthelie and Ladoix. Within these, look for wines from strong vintages – 2017, 2020 for reds – that might be prohibitively priced in the more prestigious appellations. Equally, in less acclaimed red-wine vintages such as 2021 and 2016, it can be worth seeking out wines from top ACs where, in the hands of the top domaines, it’s increasingly rare to find poor wines.

Saint-Aubin’s proximity to the Montrachet vineyards means it yields white wines that are not dissimilar in style and class (if perhaps marginally lighter in texture and weight). And while the appellation is rapidly growing in repute – and cost – there are relative bargains to be had given the quality of both the terroir and the producers who make wine here. With no grands crus, Saint-Aubin is a haven for good-value premier cru wines from the likes of such stellar names as Bachelet Monnot and Paul Pillot (both of whom also make a generic Bourgogne Blanc).

Away from the starry ACs of the Côte d’Or, some of Burgundy’s best-value wines can be found in the less fashionable Mâconnais and Côte Chalonnaise further south. Producers such as Les Heritiers Du Comte Lafon (an offshoot of famed Meursault estate Domaine des Comtes Lafon) lend star quality and the same winemaking skill and precision to the more humble of Mâcon, a region that is better known as a source of cheap-and-cheerful wines. Meanwhile appellations such as Rully (minerally, tense whites and charming, perfumed reds) and Mercurey (deep, rich reds) in the Côte Chalonnaise offer interest that belies their modest reputation.

Both regions are also a source of that other route into good-value white Burgundy – the region’s alternative grape variety. Aligoté is an increasingly popular variety for wines of minerality and substance, with Domaine de la Folie in Rully and Domaine de la Monette in Mercurey both producing notable examples. Such is the point of difference that Aligoté offers, however, that you’ll also find renderings from producers based in more prestigious appellations – Sylvain Cathiard being just one such example. And then you have A&P De Villaine, which falls under the same ownership and approach as the vaunted Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, producing a version in the Aligoté-exclusive appellation of Bouzeron, the northernmost in the Côte Chalonnaise.

In terms of red wines, Fixin and Marsannay (both of which also produce a smattering of good-value whites) offer a rewarding source of under-the-radar quality-to-price ratio. The pair sit at the northern end of the Côte de Nuits, just a few kilometres from the more renowned appellations of Gevrey-Chambertin and Morey-St-Denis. Fixin’s soils – and its best wines –– are very similar in style to those of the former, but producers have traditionally focused more on the local market of Dijon, something that is now changing. Marsannay, meanwhile, has long been criminally overlooked by many commentators – something that may well change if, as seems likely, its finest vineyards are upgraded to premier-cru status in the coming years. Producers of the quality of Bruno Clair offer the chance for smart buyers to stock up on such wines before their prices increase as a result.

With such promotions rare, and the structure of land ownership in Burgundy rather impenetrable, it can be hard for new names to make substantial inroads via domaine-bottled wines – i.e. wines made from vineyards that they own. Vines in the top sites rarely come up for sale and even when they do, they are so expensive as to be prohibitive to new entrants. You would think, as a result, that hunting out undervalued Burgundy wines from newcomers is a fruitless pursuit. Not so. Recent years have seen a clutch of small, negociant-based new entrants – often headed by ambitious younger winemakers – who are able to buy grapes from vineyard owners and make wine under their own name from rented wineries, thus avoiding huge overheads.

Several such producers come with a fresh, dynamic approach, and in focusing on a handful of small-production wines are able to deliver the requisite attention to detail to produce a highly characterful style. As a result, they can quickly gain a keen following. The key is to get on board before they gain widespread recognition. Keeping an eye on critics’ ratings is one way of doing so, while at Justerini & Brooks we try to champion such up-and-coming names, often via dedicated offers, and by offering access to exclusive allocations.  

Finally, buying Burgundy en primeur is generally another route in to the best value. Such has been the strength of the investment market in Burgundy over recent years that investing en primeur – before the wines are bottled, at their release – and, in theory, lowest – price has generally been the best bet, particularly when it comes to securing the very top wines, allocations of which can be miniscule. And while many of the more value-oriented wines mentioned here don’t necessarily fall into this category, or as investment vehicles, en primeur purchase can still provide certainty when it comes to value for up-and-coming or small-production domaines and regions, as well as in terms of sourcing wines directly from the producer’s cellars.