UGC Week: Bordeaux 2015 - Day two, traversing the Gironde
7 April 2016
Tom Jenkins
Our first appointment of the day was with Cyril Thienpont, son of Nicolas and nephew of Jacques. Larcis Ducasse and Pavie Macquin are seriously impressive expressions of their terroir, brimming with vibrant fruit and wrapped in sumptuous tannins.
Beauséjour Duffau Lagarrosse is mighty impressive too. Perhaps it is not quite as much to our taste as the Larcis and Pavie Macquin, but it is hard not to be enthralled by its exuberance and stature. Bravo. We took the short drive over the plateau to L’If, where we were welcomed by Jacques. Last year we were awestruck by the strides made at this estate. The 2015 is possibly even more glorious! Pomerol UGC was almost bereft of wines, so this didn’t take long… Chateau Gazin continues its fine run of form with a thoroughly assured 2015: subtle, charming, classy Pomerol. Nothing else really did it for us.
At the St Emilion UGC, aside for the striking Thienpont wines we have already mentioned, there were slimish pickings. Clos Fourtet is splendid; gently authoritative and very attractive, and Troplong Mondot is ambitious as ever with its Californianesque bouquet and massively concentrated palate. However, it still has freshness and the palate is resolutely true to its home, so it gets the thumbs up from us.
At this stage we bade farewell to the Right Bank and headed for the Graves. If reports were to be believed, we were going from strength to strength. Certainly, our first encounter with Prince Robert gave us plenty of reason to be optimistic. La Mission is voluptuous and sensual as always; a deeply complex and engaging wine. Haut Brion is more reserved, although after much coaxing, one can assess its greatness – this will be a long term, profound Haut Brion full of stony minerality, floral notes and impressive Cabernet fruit.
Olivier and Anne Bernard’s hospitality is unrivalled. Despite our busy schedule, I decided to avert a mutiny and allowed the team to lunch at Domaine de Chevalier. The food and wines were stunning as was the gorgeous Domaine de Chevalier 2015. This is understated, reserved Claret with underlying power that grows and grows to reveal a staggeringly beautiful finish. Kudos to Olivier and his team for producing on of the most striking examples from Pessac.
We had high hopes entering the UGC Pessac Leognan, but a few non-runners had weakened the field. Domaine de Chevalier was the clear favourite with Malartic Lagraviere a few lengths back. Special mention should go to Pauline Calvet’s excellent Picque Caillou. Both red and white punched well above their weights and will certainly be among our best value wines of the vintage.
With no Haut Bailly or Smith Haut Lafitte at the UGC this year, we paid Veronique and Florence visits. Both captured the vintage to perfection; SHL with its glossy, flamboyant character and Haut Bailly in a more restrained style. Well done to both Chateaux.
After a gruelling journey around the Rocade with a heated debate on the implications of BREXIT on the farming community, we reached the Margaux UGC. A brace of wines stood head and shoulders above the others: Rauzan Segla and Brane Cantenac. John Kolasa’s heir at Canon and Rauzan, Nicolas Audebert has produced two epic wines. Rauzan is as serious as it gets – chapeau! By contrast, the Brane Cantenac is wonderfully expressive and sweet fruited. It may not possess the complexity of the Rauzan, but it is utterly charming and will be an absolute pleasure to drink.
