What We're Drinking: Nebbiolo Piero Busso 2021

During a recent long and arduous walk in the Shropshire Hills recently, I was propelled by the prospect of a juicy steak and an even juicier bottle of Nebbiolo from one of my favourite producers, Piero Busso.

This gorgeous Nebbiolo was the perfect reward for my exertions. With its notes of cherry, rose, wild strawberry, cinnamon and clove, it’s very much in the estate style: pure, expressive and floral, with a backbone of fine tannin.

In the producer’s own words, ‘(our) Langhe Nebbiolo DOC is not a failed Barbaresco, but a precise harvest choice. Produced with grapes from younger vines, grown on richer soils. Harmonious and balanced’.

The 2021 was a brilliant, classical vintage throughout Piedmont. If you have yet to try the wines from this domaine, this would be a great place to begin.

The architect of exceptionally elegant wines and regarded by many of Piedmont’s starriest names as the single most exciting up and coming producer in the region, Pierguido Busso is as brilliant a winemaker as you are likely to meet.

Inspired by the artisanal, historic wines of the Langhe, and those of the Cote d’Or, Germany and Champagne, he is an imbiber and student of fine wine in all its forms. Aided by propitious old-vine holdings in some of Neive and Treiso’s most desirable sites, Pier produces Barbarescos of fruit-led finesse and light-touch tannic delicacy. 2021 is a brilliant vintage here; the wines sculpted, sapid, with the most alluring textures. It caps a run of exceptional vintages.

The collection is crowned by the much-awaited Riserva labels from 2019 – each one representing just a single barrel in production. “2021 is a vintage that I enjoy a lot. It is classical. Everything was exactly as it should be.” A producer that should be on everybody’s shopping list before demand catches up with the quality.

 

Piero Busso, Nebbiolo, 2021 at £26.05 per bottle UK including taxes.

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Piero Busso, with his bright young son Pierguido, is starting to drive quality to greater heights at this top-drawer family Barbaresco domaine. Founded by Guido Busso in the fifties, this domaine is based in Neive and has at its core some fine Nebbiolo vines planted in the Albesani vineyard opposite the winery. The estate's fine holdings don't stop there, however, also boasting parcels in the fabulous Gallina vineyard and Treiso's San Stunet. Winemaking is traditional here, long and slow, up to 45 days maceration on the skins, and ageing is in 25hl slavonian oak casks for two years. These will sweep you off your feet, bewitching high toned pure fruit and floral aspects are their hallmarks. Expressive and seductive, these are wines that have something to say about where they are from.

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