What We're Drinking: Rosso di Montalcino "Le Ragnaie", 2020

If Brunello is the host who planned the evening down to the napkin rings, Rosso is the guest who turns up early with a bottle and all the best stories — just as impressive, a touch more relaxed.

Le Ragnaie’s 2020 Rosso di Montalcino reminds me of those early evening moments on holiday — sun still warm on your face, crickets just kicking off, and no pressure to do anything except sit, sip, and wait for dinner to start. I’m a sucker for nostalgia.

Bright red berry fruit, a bit of earthiness, some gentle Tuscan herbs and a crack of black pepper — nothing showy, but everything in balance. Fresh enough to drink before the meal, but with enough depth to carry on through it. My Mother swears red wine is only for Winter, I’ve been trying to prove her wrong for years — this proves it.

This might be built like a dinner wine, but it’s much happier joining the party early.

Right red berry fruit, a bit of earthiness, some gentle Tuscan herbs and a crack of black pepper — nothing showy, but everything in balance. Fresh enough to drink before the meal, but with enough depth to carry on through it.

Rosso di Montalcino "Le Ragnaie", 2020 at £37.51 per bottle UK including taxes.

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Le Ragnaie was a rookie estate established by the young Riccardo and Jennifer Campinoti when they bought the farmhouse and some well-placed old vines back in 2003. Since then they have gone on to become one of the region’s brightest new stars. The estate spreads accross15ha, five of which are in the zone where the cellars are based, Le Ragnaie itself. These vines are the highest of any in Montalcino, at 550 metres above sea level, south facing in the central zone above Soldera di Case Basse. As one of the highest points in the region it became famous for bird catchers, in fact the traditional birdcatchers' net features on the label as part of the winery's logo.

The estate takes its name from the fact that this net looked rather like a spider's web (Ragna, in Italian.) Complimenting these vineyards are those from Petroso, a vineyard area along the Scarnacuoia road below the village of Montalcino (one of the oldestwine making zones in the area.) in addition to some from Castelnuovo dell'Abate, a vineyard located in the southern sector of Montalcino in front of the Amiata Mountain, next door to Poggio di Sotto. As of 2015 there is a new single cru, Montosoli, one of the most highly-esteemed zones in the whole of the region, sitting on the north side of Montalcino. Organic viticulture is employed, grapes are hand picked, de-stemmed, fermented and then aged in large 25 hl slavonian oak casks for 36 months.

The high vineyards of Ragnaie that form the basis of the blend plus the long, gentle macerations result in enormously charming, aromatic and really quite high toned wines that still manage to retain the requisite power. A unique, extremely drinkable style of Brunello that will sweep you off your feet.

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