Château Montrose, 2ème Cru Classé, St Estèphe, 2014
Martin and Olivier Bouygues, of the Bouygues construction and communications empire hold the keys to this magnificent second growth Chateau. In fact it is Martin's wife, Melissa who is the official President of Montrose. The wines of this great estate were firm favourites of their father. In 1995 after an experience with a bottle of the 1990, Martin vowed to buy the chateau. Sure enough, 10 years later and he was in possession of the keys. A huge renovation project began in the cellars, a 20 hectare parcel was re-patriated from Phelan Segur and two of the biggest names in Bordeaux were appointed as directors: Hervé Berland and Jean-Bernard Delmas - clear intent that the Bouygues meant business... This is definitely a chateau with first growth pretentions, producing wines to back that up. We were the first 'foreigners' to taste the final blend when we visited in February and we were mighty impressed. Would the sample live up to our lofty expectations? The answer was an emphatic yes. On this showing the wine has become a little more introverted and less aromatic, but the intensity, concentration and class are all very evident. Nicolas Glumineau of Pichon Lalande, the former wine-maker at Montrose explained that for him Montrose always possesses this extraordinary power. He would never worry about concentration, the objective was to manage the tannic structure. In 2016 it is mission accomplished. Brooding and introverted, a mass of tightly coiled minerals, small berry fruit, chalk and flowers. The palate offers a stunning robe of cool cassis and liqueur fruits; this is so taut and precise. It gives no impression of weight, yet there is real gravitas here, a latent power than is ever present yet unnoticeable. The tannins are grand and nuanced with beautiful, refined fruit. This is certainly one of the most serious wines of the vintage. Chapeau!
critic reviews
The 2014 Montrose has an engaging and complex bouquet with black fruit, a pencil box, pressed violet and warm earth scents, gaining intensity with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with excellent tannins that frame the mineral-rich black fruit (in fact, this is one of the most mineral-laden 2014 Left Banks I tasted.) The oak is seamlessly integrated, and the finish has real panache. Beautifully, and it's just entering its drinking window. Tasted at Bordeaux Index's 10-Year-On tasting.
Medium to deep garnet in color, the 2014 Montrose scoots out of the glass with ready-to-go notes of kirsch, redcurrant jelly, and dried blackcurrants plus hints of iron ore, cloves, and nutmeg. The medium-bodied palate delivers a taut, muscular core of black fruit flavors, supported by firm, grainy tannins and a lively line, finishing long and opulent. Truly impressive—bravo!
Noticeably younger than many in its tannic structure and fruit concentration, this has a ton of lift and a ton of slate-filled tannic grip. A stately St Esèphe, entirely in keeping with the character of this wine, lovers of classical, balalanced, concentrated Montrose will want to get hold of this - and it is just about ready to begin drinking, although zero risk of it tipping too far into tertiary over the next decade. It has delivered every time I've tasted it, and really shows itself well in a lineup against other 2014s. Harvest September 22 to October 16. Hervé Berland director.
The brilliant 2014 Montrose is the fruit of a harvest that stretched out for almost a month, ending on October 17. One of the wines of the vintage, it opens in the glass with aromas of cassis and plums mingled with burning embers, licorice, sweet loamy soil and pencil shavings. Medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, it's concentrated and tightly wound, with sweet tannins and a long, penetrating finish.