2021
6x75cl
DP
£236.42
vintage
portfolio
2021
6x75cl
DP
£236.42
2022
6x75cl
DP
£260.42
From a tiny 0.4ha section of the vineyard planted in 1880 that remains, despite some obvious replanting, entirely ungrafted. Crisp slate driven aromas on the nose, and a stony complexity over and above any sensation of fruit. On the palate there’s a sense of finesse and while this is not a broad wine, it has impeccable focus and steely length. A touch of smoke and fine-grained slate surrounds a core of delicate citrus fruit. Very clear and hauntingly long.
The life of a Saar Riesling grower is not an easy one. Possibly one of the coldest and most marginal corners of Germany, the Saar can produce some of the world’s great white wine in hot sunny years such as 1990. However, these are usually outnumbered by cold wet years resulting in over astringent and unripe wines. There are a small band of growers though who have a distinct advantage over the rest in the land that they own. A handful of Saar vineyards are steep enough and exposed enough to ensure a decent level of grape ripening even in poor years. Hanno Zilliken is fortunate enough to have sizeable holdings in Saarburg’s great vineyard, the steep south-facing Rausch. He exploits these slate based vines to the maximum through careful pruning and hand selection. When the wine is pressed, it gently descends by gravity into the oak casks lying in Hanno’s dark damp cellars. The wines are prime examples of Saar Riesling, being mouthwateringly taut, mineral and sophisticated.
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