Bodegas Fulcro was established in 2009 by Manuel Moldes Marana, or “Chicho” as he is more widely known. At this time, the family owned half a hectare in their home region of Salnes, in keeping with the tradition of the area, and Chicho had grown up around wine, produced entirely for their own consumption. Believing in the potential of the Albarino grape as a vehicle to express site and location, Chicho, as a young wine lover decided he would give it his best shot. Fast forward to now and Bodegas Fulcro is the name on everyone’s lips. Intense, crackling, mineral driven Albarinos deeply reflective of their coastal origin and differing soil profiles are the order of the day. Growing in reputation and confidence, Chicho’s star is firmly on the rise; we’d go so far to say that these are some of the most exciting whites being produced in Spain at the moment. A focus on old vines, low yields, indigenous yeasts and hands-off winemaking in neutral 500L demi-muids, foudres and tank results in dazzling wines of unbelievable clarity. A Pedreira is the main Albarino of the project, representing a blend of granitic parcels raised in a combination of steel and cask. Fulcro Equilibro, released later, is a schist driven wine from a single plot averaging 70 years old – texture and minerality par excellence. A Cesteira is a single plot on a complex mix of granite, schist and quartz – the raciest wine of the stable, just one foudré is produced. Finally, Nas Dunas “The Dunes” is the most profound, intricate, ageworthy white of the estate. It comes from an extremely old sandy plot, shared with Forjas del Salnes. Rarely is more than a barrel produced. Though the whites take centre-stage, two peppery, herbal reds are produced in small volumes from indigenous Galician varieties. Aliaxe Tinto is a co-fermented blend of Caino, Espadeiro and Loureiro, while Finca Fabainas is a 100% Espadeiro produced from 130 year old vines.