La Rioja Alta, Rioja, Gran Reserva 904, 2009

There’s a fluency and elegance to the 2016 and given a little air this lithe blend of Tempranillo with 10% Graciano takes on vast stature and breadth. It is perfectly judged, just on the right side of traditional, being refined, complex, unforced and harmonious, whilst also being sleek and generous in ripe fruit character. It is redolent with bruised cherry, sour plum, blackcurrant, blood orange, cocao nib, balsamic and polished mahogany. Dried leaves, wild sage, rosemary, oolong tea and pipe tobacco develop on the supremely long finish, with a hint of cinnamon and nutmeg, which add a hat tip to the perfectly balanced American oak integration.