Bordeaux 2025: Château Palmer and Château Branaire Ducru

PEERLESS PALMER

Palmer is at its sumptuous best in 2025. It might be considered an outlier in the Margaux appellation with its predisposition for Merlot and as a leading exponent of biodynamic farming, however, their 2025 encapsulates both the spirit of the commune and the vintage. This is deep, complex and demonstrative, with waves of opulent, velvety fruit supported by distinguished tannins – Margaux at its most luxuriant… The second wine, Alter Ego is also extremely good, a wine of real class, energy and focus.

Further north in St Julien, we have one of the best value wines of the Medoc, the excellent Branaire Ducru. François Xavier Maroteaux is continuing his father’s good work, consistently featuring amongst our best buy selections. The 2025 is another brilliant effort, brimming with classy Cabernet fruit underpinned by well-judged tannins and fine acidity. Between Branaire, Talbot and Langoa, it’s a tough choice, but maybe Branaire has it by a nose…

CRITICS' NOTES

“One of the most refined and seamless wines of the vintage is the 2025 Palmer, a blend of 55% Merlot, 41% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Petit Verdot that wafts from the glass with aromas of sweet blackberries, plums and licorice complemented by floral accents of violet and wisteria (yes, the window of the tasting room was closed). Full-bodied, suave and layered, with a deep and concentrated core of fruit, bright acids and supple tannins, it's already harmonious and complete, concluding with a long, penetrating finish. At only 13.5% alcohol, this is quite a bit lower than most recent sunny vintages at Palmer.”

97-99/100

William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

“The 2025 Palmer was picked between September 4 and 26 at just 20 hl/ha (Duroux mentioned how yields have decreased by around 10 hl/ha over the last decade). Matured in 80% new oak and then racked into foudres the following June, it is quintessentially Palmer on the nose with those almost extravagant floral violet scents that blossom in the glass. Wonderful delineation and focus, touches of Indian ink and cassis emerge with time. The palate is very smooth and velvety on the entry, disguising the substance and weight of this wine. Impressive in terms of density, with a little more grip than the Alter Ego, it delivers just the right amount of spice that gives the finish another dimension. One of the longer-term Margaux wines that would benefit from a cellar in its first few years. Drink 2035-2070.”

95-97/100

Neal Martin, vinous.com

"The 2025 Branaire-Ducru was cropped at 33 hl/ha, which is not too low in the context of the growing season, but the smallest since 1991. Picking was from September 4 with the early Merlots and finished September 22. The Merlot on clay soils was deemed high quality and therefore comprises a slightly higher percentage of the blend. It is aged in 60% new and 40% one-year-old barrels. This has a flattering bouquet with black plum and strawberry fruit, and a noticeable though agreeable powdered chocolate/mocha note at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with silky smooth tannins, a fine bead of acidity, and hints of mocha and mint merging with black fruit. The finish is quite linear and understated, keeping within the style of the château. Very classy, this will give a lot of pleasure without too much cellaring. 13.2% alcohol. Drinking Window 2030 - 2055"

93-95/100

Neal Martin, vinous.com

"The 2025 Branaire-Ducru is a compelling wine in the making, revealing an open, refined bouquet of cassis, mulberries, spices, flowers and pencil lead, with its new oak largely remaining in the background. Medium- to full-bodied, it’s sapid and perfumed, built around a seamless, layered core of fruit framed by finely grained, velvety tannins and concluding with a long, fresh and precise finish. Matured in 65% new oak, this blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot and 6% Cabernet Franc captures the estate’s signature style—polished, balanced and texturally refined—while clearly reflecting the brightness and freshness of the vintage."

94-96/100

Yohan Castaing, The Wine Advocate