Bordeaux 2025: Pichon Comtesse and La Mission Haut Brion

CLASS IN THE GLASS

Nicolas Glumineau epitomises the modern-day technical director. His attention to detail and vision have elevated Pichon Comtesse to the very pinnacle of Bordeaux production. Every year we marvel at his wines, ranking them amongst the finest of the vintage, and the 2025 is no different. Sumptuous, ethereal, perfumed, this is yet another absorbing and utterly charming Pichon. Pichon Comtesse Reserve and de Pez are also worthy of special mention – these are two of the most compelling examples ever made under these labels.

Clarence Dillon has released the wines from La Mission Haut Brion. Jean-Philippe Delmas has yet again fashioned another extraordinary range of wines, with La Mission and Haut Brion amongst the finest examples of the vintage. The Merlots here are extraordinary, providing an extravagant mid-palate of glorious, velvety textured fruit. These both ranked amongst the most profound and pleasurable wines from the left bank. Please note, The Haut Brion stable will not be released until next week.

Fans of La Mission Haut Brion Blanc will not want to miss out on this year’s magnificent expression, described by Neal Martin as “a great La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc, perchance the best dry white Bordeaux in 2025”. As ever, production is miniscule, so volumes are very limited.

CRITICS' NOTES

“The 2025 Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is showing well, opening in the glass with notes of cassis, blackberries, cigar wrapper and iris, becoming more fragrant with aeration. Medium- to full-bodied, deep and layered, with plenty of powdery tannin that asserts itself on the youthfully structured finish, it's a blend of 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc.”

94-96/100 William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

“The 2025 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande was picked from August 28, the earliest ever, finishing on September 23, matured in 66% new oak, the rest one-year-old. It has a taut and linear nose, very classic in style, graphite/pencil lead scents that permeate the black fruit. Beautiful delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannins. A little more structured and austere than the more Merlot-driven vintages of old. Yet as it unfurls in the glass, it reveals the level of sophistication and precision you now come to expect from this Pauillac Second Growth. At 13.1% alcohol, this is lower than other recent vintages. Drink 2032-2060.”

95-97/100 Neal Martin, vinous.com

“The 2025 La Mission Haut-Brion was picked from August 28 until September 19 at around 23 hl/ha, lower than Haut-Brion, perhaps due to higher density of planting and less competition between vines. There is less new oak, at around 59%, the same as Haut-Brion, down from around 80% in recent years. This has a perfumed bouquet, one of the most floral that I can recall, beautifully defined with black cherries, blueberry and crushed violet scents. The palate is medium-bodied with chiselled tannins, a silver thread of acidity, quite linear in style with a strict, tensile, graphite-tinged finish. Yeah, it has to play second fiddle to Haut-Brion this year, but it is still a great La Mission. 13.6% alcohol. Drink 2035-2065.”

94-96/100 Neal Martin, vinous.com

“A blend of 58.3% Merlot, 38.3% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3.4% Cabernet Franc, the 2025 La Mission Haut-Brion reveals a refined bouquet of smoky cassis, dark berries, spices and lead pencil, framed by a deft touch of new oak. Medium- to full-bodied, dense and layered, it’s built around a multidimensional core of fruit underpinned by fine, velvety tannins, concluding with a long, perfumed and precise finish. Combining depth with energy, it delivers a textural yet controlled expression of power, with a real sense of freshness. The result is a particularly faithful, charming rendition of La Mission, defined by its elegance and overall precision.”

97-99/100 Yohan Castaing, The Wine Advocate

“The 2025 La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc has a really lovely Sémillon-driven bouquet (64.5% of the blend), beautifully defined with touches of apple blossom, white flowers and pear drop. The palate is very well balanced, with fine acidity, taut and fresh, a little more weight than the Haut-Brion Blanc thanks to the Sémillon, with a touch of ginger and chamomile towards the finish. This is a great La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc, perchance the best dry white Bordeaux in 2025. Drink 2033-2055.”

95-97/100 Neal Martin, vinous.com

“The La Mission Haut-Brion 2025 Blanc, a blend of 64.5% Sémillon and 35.5% Sauvignon Blanc, was vinified in barrels and bottled from April 13. It reveals a pure, crystalline bouquet that is both fresh and lightly exotic, with notes of ripe white fruits, jasmine, linden and verbena. Medium- to full-bodied, dense and enveloping, it’s layered yet vibrant and built around a fleshy core of fruit, supported by bright acidity and elegant tension. Ethereal and finely detailed, it is remarkable in its ability to retain freshness despite the warmth of the vintage. This is one of the most complete expressions of the wine in recent years, combining both density and brightness, and among the finest white wines produced in Bordeaux this year.”

95-97/100 Yohan Castaing, The Wine Advocate