Four Mature German Rieslings to Drink This Summer

At Justerini & Brooks, we’ve long enjoyed the pleasure of a glass of German Riesling in summer. Few wines deliver such lively drinkability and sheer enjoyment, often at a fraction of the price of comparable fine wines.

But beyond its immediate appeal, it’s no secret that German Riesling has fantastic ageing potential; the combination of cool-climate acidity balanced by gentle sweetness allows for slow, expressive development that is practically unmatched in the wine world.

While young Riesling can be immediately seductive, the finest examples often benefit from time in bottle to truly come into their own. Wines that are bracingly taut in youth begin to soften, developing a more supple, balm-like texture. Residual sweetness mellows, while aromas lift and intensify. Everything becomes more harmonious and composed.

This week, we are highlighting four superb Spätlesen that offer the chance to explore the evolving beauty of German Riesling with the benefit of time in bottle.

Schloss Lieser, Spätlese, Trocken, Schloss Lieser, 2016 £21.38 per bottle inc VAT

From the Mosel, this Spätlese is the only fully dry wine in the lineup and is often described as a mini-Grosses Gewächs. Sourced entirely from the Lieser Niederberg Helden vineyard, it tends to show a firm, structured palate with juicy citrus fruit, crisp acidity, and a distinctive stony, smoky and saline character.

Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr, Riesling, Spätlese, Schloss Lieser, 2016 £21.93 per bottle inc VAT

The Juffer Sonnenuhr is the warmest, steepest part of the larger Brauneberger Juffer vineyard, centred around a historic sundial. Schloss Lieser’s holdings lie in the prime middle section, with 40–50-year-old vines rooted in fine blue-grey slate. On release, this is a pure, delicate, tightly wound Spätlese (more slate and citrus than overt fruit) but over time it blossoms into something more layered and expressive.

Saarburger Rausch, Riesling, Spätlese, Zilliken, 2017 £33.92 per bottle inc VAT

From one of the steepest and coolest sites in the Saar Valley, Saarburger Rausch is renowned for its high slate content, producing the most mineral, structured, and elegant wines in Zilliken’s range. This Spätlese is slender in feel, with vibrant acidity and a distinctive sea salt minerality.

Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle, Riesling, Spätlese, Dönnhoff, 2014 £46.45 per bottle inc VAT

Undoubtedly one of Germany’s great vineyards, Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle faces south to south-east, allowing for excellent sun exposure and extended ripening. With a higher proportion of grey slate than most sites in Dönnhoff’s portfolio, it produces some of their most powerful and age worthy wines that are marked by a deep mineral structure.

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