White Burgundy: The brilliant Ax-B from Pouilly-Fuisse’s Domaine de la Chapelle.

Perched among the vines in Pouilly, Pascal Rollet and his son Thomas quietly produce some of the most refined and characterful white Burgundies in the Mâconnais. With just 7.5 hectares of old vines – many 50 to 100 years old – their attention to detail is exacting, and it shows.

These are wines to pour blind: elegant, precise, and disarmingly good for their level. The newly arrived 2023 AxB is a standout – a cuvée from the 1er Cru Aux Bouthières, blended with a small parcel of old vines just outside the official designation (hence the name).

Two selective harvest passes in ’23 brought in fruit at different stages of ripeness, resulting in a wine of beautiful balance, freshness and depth. A joy to drink, with floral lift, ripe stone fruits and the silkiest of finishes – this is Pouilly-Fuissé of uncommon poise and pleasure.