A Beginner's Guide to Red Burgundy

For many, red Burgundy is the apogee of fine wine. The ultimate balance of harmony and complexity, delicacy and intensity, there is something so beguiling about Burgundy that the finest examples transcend one’s everyday notions of what is possible in a glass of wine. 

First planted by the Romans, the vineyards of Burgundy were mastered by the monks, who began to identify the individual crus that define the region today. Once the exclusive drink of the French nobility, Burgundy has been the source of great red wines since the medieval era. Fast forward to today – specifically the first quarter of this century – and no wine region has risen to such commercial and qualitative heights as Burgundy, its overriding style perfectly in tune with the contemporary fashion for elegance over power. 

Our expertise in fine Burgundy is long-standing, and today we are one of the UK’s biggest importers, representing over 55 domaines. The diverse output of these producers provides no finer demonstration of that baffling notion of terroir, via wines that can differ markedly depending on which side of a road their grapes hail from. It is partly this mystery that so captivates the fanatical band of Burgundy lovers across the globe – and which can also befuddle, rather than beguile, newcomers.

Burgundy is not easy for the beginner, offering a complex patchwork of vineyards and producers, which yield a host of styles, all from one grape. It is this complexity that we hope to steer you through in this guide, as we navigate a path around the region. 

The grape responsible, Pinot Noir, is known as the heartbreak grape. At its best, this think-skinned, light red variety creates wines of silky elegance and perfumed complexity. But all too often Pinot Noir, even from Burgundy, can prove a disappointment – and an expensive one at that. The conundrum, then, for anyone beginning their exploration of red Burgundy, is how to ensure their purchases lean into the sublime rather than the sub-par.

The first step might be to get to grips with the lay of the Burgundian land. The very best red Burgundies come from the Côte d’Or, a narrow strip of vineyards that runs from just south of Dijon down to Beaune (the section known as the Côte de Nuits), where it then veers in a south-westerly direction towards the border of Saône-et-Loire (the section known as the Côte de Beaune). Both Côtes can then be further sub-divided into appellations, many of which are named after the famous villages which line the route from north to south, like twinkling bulbs on a string of fairy lights. The list of these appellations reads like a who’s who of the most sought-after wines in the world. 

The Côte de Nuits is home to such renowned appellations as Chambolle-Musigny, the source of delicate, detailed wines, famed for their perfume and bright red fruits. Then there’s Gevrey-Chambertin, an appellation whose wines exude gravitas and rigorous precision, and the opulent, heady, dark-fruited Vosne-Romanée. The most famous appellations of the Côte de Beaune, meanwhile, are probably the plush, rounded Pommard (Domaine de Montille’s Les Rugiens du Bas, a Pommard 1er Cru, is a fine example) and the fine-boned, scented Volnay (of which Domaine Henri Boillot’s Les Caillerets 1er Cru is typical). Many would argue, in addition, that the forthright, fleshy wines of Beaune itself are of equal interest, if less renown.

It's also worth noting that, in an era of rising prices and rising temperatures, the red wines of the less reputed Côte Chalonnaise, which lies to the south of the Côte de Beaune, are becoming increasingly recognised for both their palate- and wallet-pleasing nature. Appellations such as Mercurey and Givry are still relative secrets, as are the Rully Rouges produced by such stellar names as A&P de Villaine (the family behind the iconic – and extravagantly priced – wines of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti).

Understanding where your wine comes from is only the first step on the path to sourcing great Burgundy. The next thing to decipher is the region’s quality hierarchy, a system whose origins lie far back in time. The monks who tended the Burgundian vineyards in the Middle Ages began a process of mapping the quality and character of each plot, an exercise that would culminate in our contemporary crus. In general terms, the hierarchy reflects the lay of the land. The Côte d'Or vineyards are arranged along the slopes of a chain of largely east-facing hills, with the very best wines typically coming from the mid-level ‘Goldilocks’ zone, where the amount of topsoil and the exposure to the summer sun is precisely calibrated to produce the best grapes. The more modest wines, meanwhile, tend to come from the bottom of the slopes.

These more basic wines, made from grapes grown (and often blended together) anywhere within the wider Burgundy region, rather than a specific site, are labelled as Bourgogne Rouge. They are, typically, fruit-driven cuvées that are best drunk within two or three years of bottling.

The next level up on the quality pyramid are ‘Village’ wines, which will bear the name of the specific village appellation from which the grapes were sourced (though the grapes may well come from a vineyard that lies some distance from the actual village itself). These are wines that tend to be destined for medium-term drinking – a four- to ten-year window is usually about right for a wine like Bruno Clair’s Les Champs Perdrix, a Village-level wine from Vosne-Romanée. That said, some of these bottlings are surprisingly approachable in their youth, while others are still going strong a couple of decades on from harvest. 

Go up the quality ladder a notch, to Premier Cru level, or two, to Grand Cru, on the very top rung, and you find yourself in the realm of truly great wines. These are wines from specific plots within the village appellations, and although these bottles are often seductive in their youth, with heady aromas of berry and cherry fruits often tinged with notes of flowers and spices, it’s worth giving them time – a decade or so at the very least, if you can be patient. Given time, wines like Ghislaine Barthod’s Les Veroilles, a 1er Cru from Chambolle-Musigny, or Robert Groffier’s Bonnes Mares Grand Cru, will reward you with a layered symphony of flavours that combine youthful fruit with savoury nuances that call to mind the earthiness of an autumnal forest and the rich funk of black truffles. Texture is an important consideration in Pinot Noir’s distinctive character, too – there’s a slippery, silky elegance associated with the grape, while tannins are typically fine-boned and elegant.

It's important to note, too, that the classification of Burgundy wines – be it generic Gevrey-Chambertin ‘Village’ wines, or a Bonnes Mares Grand Cru – relates to the vineyard(s) from which it is drawn, not the producer. Most Burgundian vineyards are shared between several domaines. The likes of the vaunted Clos Vougeot, for example, is home to dozens of different owners, each of whom cultivates their own patch, some of which extend to less than a quarter of a hectare. All of the resulting wines will be ‘Grand Cru Clos Vougeot’, though again, each may taste quite different, depending on the technique and approach of the producer.

Vintage will also affect the character of these wines. Cool, rainy growing seasons typically result in wines that are lighter in body and with less concentration of flavour. Such wines often show well in their youth, however, and can be ideal choices for early consumption while you’re waiting for wines from richer vintages to come round. Warm, dry growing seasons – of which there have been more than a few in recent years – create ripe, rounded wines with dense, fleshy mid-palates and, quite often, relatively low levels of acidity. Most experts believe that red Burgundy excels in vintages where conditions are neither too cold nor too hot, making for poised, balanced wines that ally good levels of structure to bright, perfumed palates.

These, then, are the key elements to look for on a label: the classification (generic Bourgogne; ‘Village’ level from a named appellation; premier cru; and grand cru), vintage and producer. Again, it is worth noting that top producers often make wines across this quality spectrum, allowing for newcomers to get to know the various appellations before stepping up to cru level. Starting a collection of red Burgundy might involve purchasing a mixed case of wines at all levels, with a focus on the mid-range, Village level to compare and contrast different appellations. Such an exercise doesn’t require a dedicated storage facility – just keep the wines in a cool, dark place and bring each bottle up to room temperature when you plan to serve it (too cool is better than too warm, as the wine will always warm up in your hands and on the table).

Starting a collection of red Burgundy might involve purchasing a mixed case of wines at all levels, with a focus on the mid-range, Village level to compare and contrast different appellations. Such an exercise doesn’t require a dedicated storage facility – just keep the wines in a cool, dark place and bring each bottle up to room temperature when you plan to serve it (too cool is better than too warm, as the wine will always warm up in your hands and on the table).

When it comes to gastronomic pairings, Pinot Noir is the Swiss army knife of red grapes. Versatile and food-friendly, it’s difficult to think of a dish it can’t match (apart, perhaps, from fiery Asian dishes, which overwhelm the wines’ delicate flavours). Young, fruity red Burgundies work well with duck (the bright acidity makes a pleasing counterpoint to the richness of the meat), robust fish dishes (salmon and tuna in particular) and elevate simple roast chicken to the next level. The earthy notes of aged Burgundies chime wonderfully with game and red meats, while many believe the ultimate harmonies to be found in mushroom-based dishes.

The hedonistic pleasures afforded by these Burgundies are among the reasons why, despite the potential for heartbreak, wine lovers return to Pinot Noir time and time again. But in finding your perfect Pinot, once you’ve come to terms with the cru system, there’s one last hurdle to overcome. It has to be acknowledged that not all Burgundian wine producers are created equal. In the hands of the very best – veritable Pinot whisperers – the constraints imposed by lesser vineyards and tricky vintages are not only overcome, but spur them on to create wines that exceed expectations.

It’s also worth noting the difference between ‘domaine’-produced wines (made entirely from a producer’s own vineyards) and ‘maison’-based wine (made via a negociant model, where the producer buys in grapes from a third party). The latter, in the right hands, can allow for a more value-based route into some of the top appellations. 

Perhaps the best advice for anyone getting to grips with the complexities of red Burgundy is to simply ask for a steer. Our expertise in the region is long-standing, and we can guide you towards a selection of wines that will suit both your tastes and your budget – and get your love affair with the heartbreak grape off to the best possible start.

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