Bonnes Mares, Grand Cru, 2023

Nicholas’ Bonnes-Mares very often upends perceived notions of what Bonnes-Mares could/should/might represent, with more of a leaning to tenderness and charm than power. Here there’s the most essential nose, neither overtly dominated by fruit, mineral or spice, just a fusion of so much that makes Pinot Noir so beguiling. Ultra sleek tannins set this off across the palate with a real sense of kinetic energy and flow. With a rock-salt-infused yet beautifully long and haunting finish, this is a such a civilised, sophisticated wonder of a Bonnes-Mares. From an excellent 1ha parcel of 80-year-old vines situated between Roumier and Dujac, straddling both red and white soil types.