Château Margaux, 1er Cru Classé, Margaux, 2013

After a draconian selection, the Grand Vin accounts for just 38% of the crop. There was a sudden attack of botrytis just days before the harvest began. Margaux's highly trained pickers made a selection in the vineyard before a further selection process in the cellars. Paul Pontallier described this as a '21st century wine'. He freely admitted that the vintage would have been a disaster 20 or 30 years ago, but with modern techniques, they have produced something they are proud to call Chateau Margaux. Produced from 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot, Merlot was badly affected by coulure and millerandage and doesn't feature. The drastic selection has a 'surprising quality'. It's quite an ethereal bouquet of cut flowers, red berries and minerals. It is quite introspective with suave red fruit and kirsch; beautifully detailed and svelte, intense, elegant and although on the light side, has surprising length and noble, refined flavours.