Barbaresco, Sori San Lorenzo, 2001

The 2001 Sori San Lorenzo is the richest and deepest of these 2001s. It remains cool, inward and totally implosive. Dark fruit, leather, goudron and licorice are some of the notes that begin to emerge over time. The 2001 is dazzling, but it is also very much on the muscular side and needs time to soften. I imagine it will drink beautifully for another 20 years, and that is likely to be conservative in light of the glacial pace with which the San Lorenzo ages. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2034. Angelo Gaja isnt the talkative type too often these days. Most of the time I am greeted, left alone in a room to taste, and then greeted again before I leave. On this day, though, Gaja started talking about vintages, and in particular the misconception that wines from hot years dont age. Gaja cited 1961, a warm year in Piedmont, and one of the most legendary at the time. The wines aged just fine, added Gaja. What struck me most, though, was how clear Gajas recollection was of events that transpired fifty years ago. I know only one other person in Piedmont who has a similarly sharp memory that goes that far back. What does that have to do with these 2001s? Not much, except that it seemed like an interesting anecdote to share. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604 8900

DRINKING WINDOW 2014 - 2034

date of review 04/2012