Château Capbern, St Estèphe, 2023
This excellent estate situated between Calon Segur and Montrose benefits from the same wine making team as Calon Segur: Laurent Dufau, Vincent Millet and Eric Boissenot. It has now dropped the Gasqueton from its name and will just be called 'Capbern'. 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot and 3% Petit Verdot, this is very dark fruited and elemental with hints of coal dust, cassis and earth. There is plenty of stuffing, good texture and a savoury and dark chocolate finish with just a few hints of red berry fruit coming through. This has developed beautifully in the cellar and exceeds our initial appraisal. Classically styled, yet with a generous seem of sweet fruit at its core, it is already approaching its peek, and should drink well for another 5-10 years
critic reviews
Full of character, the graphite side of St Estèphe is more evident now in bottle than it was En Primeur, still get the spice of a hot vintage, and the warmth from the high alcohols, but this is juicy with highly-spiced dark fruit and full of character. 45hl/h yield, 60% new oak for ageing, harvested September 6 until 30 September.
The 2023 Capbern has a light bouquet with tertiary black fruit laced with cedar and pencil box scents, perhaps a little Pauillac in style. The palate is medium-bodied, with gentle grip on the entry. A little softer than the preceding Le Prieuré, more approachable as a result, building toward the finish, whose tannins linger. Commendable in terms of cohesion, and with a dash of black pepper, this is a fine Capbern that should age well in bottle.
A blend of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot, the 2023 Capbern has a deep garnet-purple color. It is a little grumpy to start, offering notes of black pepper and sassafras before opening out to notions of plum preserves and stewed strawberries, with a waft of tree bark. The medium-bodied palate is refreshing and light on its feet, with lightly chewy tannins and a peppery finish.
A serious, brooding wine, the 2023 Capbern offers up aromas of cassis and dark berries mingled with licorice and spices. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and layered, with good depth and concentration, it's built around lively acids and powdery tannins. It's a blend of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon (an unusually high proportion for Capbern) and 29% Merlot with the balance Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.