Château d'Yquem, 1er Grand Cru Classé, Sauternes, 2023
The culmination of a fabulous triptych, the 2023 Yquem is a scintillating Sauternes. Produced from a blend of 70% Sémillon and 30% Sauvignon Blanc, this is such a deftly made wine. From the very first nose, one is seduced by the aromatics. Pineapple, citrus notes, gentle spices and a hint of saffron – it’s utterly beguiling. Crystaline flavours continue on the palate; so refined and detailed, sweet, but not cloying, there’s an energy and drive that keeps this light-footed and refreshing. This ranks amongst the most pitch perfect and ethereal young wines we’ve tasted from Yquem, like a more refined version of the wonderful 2017.
critic reviews
The 2023 Yquem, a blend of 70% Sémillon and 30% Sauvignon Blanc, contains 154 grams per litre of residual sugar—less than the 2022. As usual, the 2023 was matured in 100% new oak, mainly French, with a small percentage from Austria. The nose is so seductive that it should come with a warning sticker. Pure and mellow, it offers beguiling scents of wild honey, quince jelly, almond shavings and that signature hint of saffron destined to accentuate with age. It displays wonderful definition, though it does not have the “aromatic drama” of the previous vintage. The palate has exquisite balance and poise that belies the depth of this Yquem, though it is less exuberant, less ostentatious than the 2022. It is really the umami sensation that defines the 2023, how it caresses, almost soothes the grateful taste buds, vanilla and flecks of white chocolate lingering on the aftertaste. This will probably drink a little sooner than the 2022. If the 2023 does have a fault, it’s that it is so flattering in its flush of youth that it will be difficult to resist. Sublime.
Power, freshness, depth, after the extremes of 2021 and 2022, this walks the line between the two, exceptional, mandarin, quince, mirabelle plums, white truffle, fresh fruit and confit fruit, a vibration of slate and steel, opulent but slices closed on the finish. The botrytis came early and quickly in 2023. Francis Mayeur in final vintage as consultant, after many years as inhouse winemaking team, Lorenzo Pasquini director. 154g/l residual sugar, 3.85ph, harvest September 14 to October 11.