Château Smith Haut Lafitte, Cru Classé Pessac Léognan, 2010

Daniel and Florence Cathiard have rescued the fortunes of this estate. Daniel jokingly says that he was given the 61 and thought the wine was so good that he bought the estate. It was only when he had the keys that he discovered that 61 was an exceptional vintage. It's a good story, but we don't see through the self deprecation; this couple are amongst the most charming and also most astute in Bordeaux. The trio of Domaine de Chevalier, Haut Bailly and Smith Haut Lafitte have become the unofficial super seconds of Pessac Leognan. The quality at these estates now rival the established order and are some of the most thrilling wines to be found on either bank of the Gironde. The 2010 Smith Haut Lafitte offers heady floral notes, plums, violets, sweet mulberry fruit, griotte liqueur, high toned berries; fragrant complex and polished. The palate is awash with suave crème de mûre fruit, cassis, with notes of spice, pepper and sweet earth. Texturally, this is silky smooth and possesses a wonderfully refined modern sheen. There is a bristling energy and tension to the '10, which excites and is so moreish. Outstanding.