Montrachet, Grand Cru, 2007

(just fined) Knockout nose combines stone fruits, iodine, vanilla and flinty minerality, with a pungent pineapple quality emerging with air. Tactile and chewy wine that's as dense as a solid yet manages to retain a lightness. This infant of a Montrachet is most impressive today on the inexorable mounting back end. This is 14% alcohol, from a crop level of just 30 hectoliters per hectare, according to Lafon.