This was at a moment when Beauséjour Duffau Lagarosse was far more traditional in its approach than today, before Nicolas Thienpont and Stéphane Derenoncourt arrived in 2009, and yet it still stands out as an exceptionally beautiful wine, in a vintage that has a deserved reputation in St Emilion. Expect saffron, wild strawberries, fine tannins, saline-drenched stones, cold ash, campfire smoke, blackberry liqueur, all perfectly melted together at this point, easy-going but with flavours that hug the palate. Jean-Michel Dubos owner, Bernard Oizeau cellar master and Michel Rolland consultant. Blend is an estimate.

Red-ruby. Subdued aromas of currant and plum, with a pruney suggestion of incipient oxidation. Supple and plump, with good texture and sweetness but a bit closed in the middle palate. Finishes with even tannins and good length. Seems much softer and riper than a sample I tasted in the spring of '99, but hints of damp earth and nuts suggest that this wine is evolving quickly.