Château Bellevue Mondotte, St Emilion, Grand Cru, SHC,

Saturated ruby. Very dark aromas of black fruits, violet, licorice and bitter chocolate, plus a sexy oak note of hickory smoke. Large-scaled, thick and sweet, with outrageous breadth for the year. Finishes with mouthcoating tannins and palate-staining black fruits. For all its sweetness and size, this wine manages to maintain impressive verve. (I should note that an earlier sample was at least as rich but more porty and roasted, with a distinctly unrefined character. Obviously, my score is for the better sample.)