Château Brane Cantenac, 2ème Cru Classé, Margaux, 2017
This is another second growth that showed better at the UGC than at the Chateau. There was nothing wrong with either sample, but the Brane tasted at Siran had more depth and concentration - it was the clear star of the show. Marie Hélène Dussech explained that they are re-grafting more Cabernet Sauvignon onto Merlot rootstocks. The blend of the 2017 is 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. While it doesn't quite live up the standards set in 2015 and 2016, this is nonetheless a mighty impressive Brane Cantenac brimming with vitality. Perfumed notes of wild flowers, meaty Cabernet fruit, hints of coal, griotte and Chambord. The palate has good intensity with waves of pure hedgerow fruit, toast and sweet spice. The team integrated 3.4% press wine at an early stage which gives more mid palate weight. It feels cohesive, balanced and unforced - a really elegant, vibrant Margaux that finishes with engaging salty briar fruit. Excellent.
critic reviews
2017 was the year in which three hectares were planted with white varieties. The 2017 Brane-Cantenac has a slightly leaner nose compared to vintages either side, more marine-influenced with oyster shell and kelp infusing the black fruit, but finely delineated. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins. This feels lightly spiced and harmonious, quite "gentle" for the château with a judicious touch of cracked black pepper than enhances the finish. Fine. Tasted at the Brane-Cantenac vertical at the château in September 2025.
Soft crushed rose petals, this is remarkably open and ready at 8 years old when you look at the rest of the vertical - definitely one for early drinking, still delivering charm, character and balance. Expect silky tannins, crushed raspberry puree, good quality. Harvest September 14 to October 2, 31.3hl/h yield, 3.6ph, 70% new French oak for ageing. Eric Boissenot consultant, Henri Lurton owner, Christophe Capdeville technical director.