Château Capbern, St Estèphe, 2023
This excellent estate situated between Calon Segur and Montrose benefits from the same wine making team as Calon Segur: Laurent Dufau, Vincent Millet and Eric Boissenot. The fruit from this vineyard formed part of Calon Segur until the 2006 vintage, when the late Denise Gasqueton decided to create a separate label. It has now dropped the Gasqueton from its name and will just be called 'Capbern'. It has its own very smart winery and there is a very handsome Chateau tucked away behind the church in St Estephe. 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 46% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot cropped at 47 hl/ha, the 2016 Capbern has plenty of perfumed Cabernet character. There's a certain mineral austerity you expect from St Estephe that is both alluring and lends this a gravitas beyond its price point. Sumptuous, creamy cassis, wild plum and flowers - this is a bright fruited, very smart Capbern with a fine tannic profile. This will be excellent value for money.
critic reviews
Full of character, the graphite side of St Estèphe is more evident now in bottle than it was En Primeur, still get the spice of a hot vintage, and the warmth from the high alcohols, but this is juicy with highly-spiced dark fruit and full of character. 45hl/h yield, 60% new oak for ageing, harvested September 6 until 30 September.
The 2023 Capbern has a light bouquet with tertiary black fruit laced with cedar and pencil box scents, perhaps a little Pauillac in style. The palate is medium-bodied, with gentle grip on the entry. A little softer than the preceding Le Prieuré, more approachable as a result, building toward the finish, whose tannins linger. Commendable in terms of cohesion, and with a dash of black pepper, this is a fine Capbern that should age well in bottle.
A blend of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot, the 2023 Capbern has a deep garnet-purple color. It is a little grumpy to start, offering notes of black pepper and sassafras before opening out to notions of plum preserves and stewed strawberries, with a waft of tree bark. The medium-bodied palate is refreshing and light on its feet, with lightly chewy tannins and a peppery finish.
A serious, brooding wine, the 2023 Capbern offers up aromas of cassis and dark berries mingled with licorice and spices. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and layered, with good depth and concentration, it's built around lively acids and powdery tannins. It's a blend of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon (an unusually high proportion for Capbern) and 29% Merlot with the balance Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.