Château Cheval Blanc, St Emilion, 2022

There was no Petit Cheval in this vintage, the majority of the crop going into Cheval Blanc, taking 78% of the harvest, while 22% was sold as bulk wine (which was almost all press wine which is never included in the blend at Cheval Blanc) and there was not sufficient volume to create a Petit Cheval. A groundbreaking harvest here, beginning August 29th, the first time the Cheval Blanc harvest has begun before the arrival of September. The blend is 53% Merlot, 46% Cabernet Franc and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the élevage was shorter than usual, amounting to just 13 months, in 100% new 225-litre oak barrels. It was bottled in May, a couple of months ahead of schedule. This is just glorious on the nose, expressive but with fabulous perfume, with dense raspberry and red cherry fruits, with rosehips, vanilla and toast, pure and just leaping from the glass. The palate is beautifully composed, just so elegant and precise, with toasted summer berries, wrapped in pencil shavings and a touch of coffee bean, but the most significant finding here is one of beautifully coherent and elegant harmony, the wine filled with defined Cabernet energy, beneath which there is a fresh and peppery core of tannins. I see not a single hair out of place;overall this is a stunning Cheval Blanc, I think probably the most convincing and energetic young vintage I can recall tasting, and it is one you should leave in your cellar for a very long time before broaching. Perfection. Tasted twice. The alcohol on the label is 14%.

DRINKING WINDOW 2030 - 2063

date of review 06/2025

Expressive aromatic profile, generous structure. The Cabernet Franc pulls its weight in terms of tension and freshness, infusing the luscious fruits with mint, roses and peony. Showcasing the opulent side of Cheval Blanc while retaining a finesse and classic uplift, pulses of electricity, as ever careful construction and just a ton of utter pleasure, harvest 29 August to 20 September, earliest ever, 3.8ph, 28hl/h yield. No Petit Cheval, and first year since stepping back from the classification.

DRINKING WINDOW 2030 - 2050

date of review 03/2025

Three-quarters of the Merlot in the 2022 Cheval Blanc was Merlot picked in August—when no grape had ever been picked in that month before. It aged for just 13 months since the balance, texture and freshness were all exactly where they should be and there were concerns about the pH and potential spoilage if it spent a second winter in oak. The 2022 has an incredibly intense nose, yet it effortlessly maintains the delineation that most Right Bank estates can only dream about. Hints of blackcurrant, blueberry, violet, Earl Grey and an underlying <em>mineralité</em> come through with time. The palate is medium-bodied, perfectly balanced, pure and well defined with filigree tannins and hints of pencil shavings infusing the shimmering black fruit. A deft touch of black pepper on the aftertaste completes one of the standout wines in recent years. Tasted in September 2024 and then in January 2025 because I...err...forgot that I had already visited!

DRINKING WINDOW 2032 - 2080

date of review 02/2025