Château Cos d'Estournel, 2eme Cru Classé, St Estèphe, 2023
As with the Pagodes, the Cos team decided to pick early and chose cooler, shorter macerations with a soft remontage. Again, we questioned whether they attained enough ripeness. We commend them on attempting to make lower alcohol, more restrained wines, but this verges on the austere. There is some attractive perfume with notes of chalky minerality, flowers, bright plums and cherries, high toned, controlled and focussed. But while this is definitely an understated Cos of finesse and delicacy, we couldn't help wondering whether they picked a bit too early. Hopefully it will develop some flesh during élevage. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot at just 12.9% alcohol.
critic reviews
Fully delivering on En Primeur promise, a beautiful 2023 that lives up to the best of the vintage. Slate, cocoa bean, oyster shell, bitter black chocolate, sinewy and muscular and utterly delicious, with a kick of gourmet opulent seductive charm, followed up by a punch of tannins. Harvest September 12 to 29 (last year finished September 22). 50% new oak for ageing, 53% 1st wine. In organic conversion (that began in 2021, but have had to extend after addition of a few more plots to the vineyard). Tasted twice
The 2023 Cos d'Estournel, which was bottled in July 2025, was tasted on two visits, showing much better the second in December. It has an intense nose with predominantly black fruit, violet and fresh mint emerging with time that gives it a Pauillac-like character. Very well defined as usual, quite sophisticated. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, very well balanced with gentle but insistent grip. What I like here is the underlying sapidity that comes through toward the finish, while the sample tasted at the château demonstrated a little more creaminess to the texture. Great length, very composed, delicious and classy Cos d'Estournel.
The 2023 Cos d'Estournel is deep garnet-purple in color. Energetic notes of cassis, wild blueberries, and fresh juicy raspberries pop from the glass, giving way to underlying hints of rose oil, black pepper, and anise. The light to medium-bodied palate is taut with tightly wound, shiny black and red berry layers, framed by firm grainy tannins and bold freshness, finishing long and minerally. The blend is 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot, with pH 3.75 and TPI 72.
A contemporary classic in the making, the 2023 Cos d'Estournel has turned out beautifully, reflecting a lighter touch with extraction that has delivered more sensuality and harmony without the loss of any of the estate's signature power and authority. Wafting from the glass with deep aromas of cassis, wild berries, orange zest and exotic spices, framed by well-integrated new wood, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with a concentrated core of fruit, beautifully suave tannins and a cool, seamless profile. It's a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot and the balance Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot that attained 12.9% alcohol and is being matured in 50% new oak.