critic reviews
At 47.6ha of vines (and almost the same again in parkland), de Sales is the biggest estate in Pomerol, and it is one that has seen a number of investments over recent years to combat its image as one of the lighter-styled wines in the appellation. It is showcasing an attractively vibrant ruby colour, with soft rose-red reflections, and has immediate appeal. Blackberry and spiced plum open things up, with some bitter aniseed and fennel notes through the palate. 18% new oak for ageing, harvest September 12 through to October 3. Estate run by the 17th generation of the same family, tofay headed up by Martine Treppoz, with Vincent Montigaud as director, and Jean-Claude Berrouet consultant.
A blend of 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cabernet Franc, the 2023 de Sales has a pH of 3.64 and 13.6% alcohol. It is ageing in 18% new oak barriques and 72% 1- or 2-year-old barrels. It has a deep garnet-purple color and skips out of the glass with bright, cheery scents of kirsch, redcurrant preserves, and black raspberries, followed by hints of red roses and star anise, with a waft of cardamom. The medium-bodied palate is super-soft and juicy, with a good amount of spritely mid-palate fruit and a fragrant, soft-spoken finish. Nicely done!
Aromas of dark berries, red fruits and cherries mingled with hints of mint and violets introduce the 2023 De Sales, a medium to full-bodied, fleshy and supple blend of 80% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon (which performs well on these terroirs) and 5% Cabernet Franc. Charming, elegant and fruit-driven, if it can make it into bottle without succumbing to the Brettanomyces that inflicted the 2021, it will be well worth seeking out.