critic reviews
Decanted immediately on opening, because this remains firmly structured even at 25 years old, and feels a good number of years younger than the 1995. Once the oxygen softens things up, the autmnal but still-juicy cassis and bilberry fruits begin to spiral out of the glass. There is tobacco and smoked earth here, alongside clear black truffles, olive tapenade, flavours that indicate a high quality vintage that favoured Cabernet Sauvignon. Still fairly upright and strict, give it time in a carafe to ensure the tannins become supple enough to let the beauty of this wine out, but don't feel you need to wait too long - there is real beauty here. Harvest September 20 to October 10, 35% new oak.
(64% cabernet sauvignon, 26% merlot, 7% cabernet franc and 3% petit verdot; IPT 74; 13% alcohol): Dark ruby. Deep, brooding nose hints at dark plum, blackcurrant, coffee and lavender accented by cinnamon and nutmeg. Enters bright and fresh, then turns richer in the middle, with accessible plum, herb and coffee flavors persisting nicely on the peppery finish, which features chewy tannins. This is at once more herbal and more forward than the 1995. It's also better than I remember it, and although still quite young it offers plenty of appeal. The wine's harmonious acidity makes it seem lighter-bodied than it is. About 40% of the malolactic fermentation was carried out in barriques, compared to a normal one-third. Note that the label states 12.5% alcohol, but the data given to me by the estate shows 13% alcohol.