Château Haut Brion, 1er Cru Classé, Pessac Léognan, 1983
Haut Brion is arguably the most consistent and best performing member of the Firth Growth club. At blind tastings is often comes up trumps. The 2014 is produced from 50% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc and 39% Cabernet Sauvignon. There is a tell-tale bouquet of stony minerals, flowers, a hint of smoke and cèpe. This is a deep and elemental Haut Brion with classic stoney notes evident from all angles. Initially there is an abundance of glossy liqueur fruit and sweet boysenberries, but the core is serious and complex and speaks more of minerals and earth than of decadent fruit. There is possibly an extra gear to the Haut Brion this year; if and we expect it to flesh out a little during elevage, this will be absolutely fantastic. We love the poise and control here. The team at Haut Brion noted that veraisons (changing of skin colour) took longer than usual. They also undertook two green harvests (nettayage) to eliminate backward bunches. A spellbinding and serious Haut Brion.
critic reviews
A somewhat controversial Haut-Brion, this wine reached full maturity at a shockingly fast pace and seems now to be giving signs of cracking up. A very earthy, melted asphalt, creosote-like nose intermixed with compost, decaying autumnal vegetation, and herb-tinged fruit is actually more appealing than it might sound. In the mouth the wine is fleshy, medium-bodied, relatively lush, but the garnet color is showing considerable amber, and the finish starts to dry out after the wine sits in the glass for just a mere five minutes. And of course, I have tasted this wine from pristinely stored bottles, so I suspect those that have been less than perfectly stored are probably already in serious decline. Anticipated maturity: Now. Drink up. Last tasted, 11/02.