Château Haut Brion, 1er Cru Classé, Pessac Léognan, 1983
Why oh why can't we sell the Haut Brion and La Mission Haut Brion wines. Year after year they produce exquisite wines from some of Bordeaux's most hallowed terroirs – and mature they are some of our favourite wines to drink. And yet commercially they remain the least sought after of the Firsts and pseudo-Firsts. Perhaps 2015 will be the vintage their fortunes change; they have made a spellbinding range. The 2015 Haut Brion is much more reserved than its neighbour, La Mission. Initially introverted, but with aeration notes of blackcurrant, damp earth, forest fruits and savoury notes of cooked meats and crushed stones emerge. This is a more austere and serious character here which is surprising given the higher proportion of Merlot, but this is often a feature of Haut Brion compared with the flamboyant nature of la Mission. One can tell that there is enormous potential on the palate; cool cassis and crème de mûre with an unbelievably persistent haunting air of cool aristocratic crunchy berry fruit. The tannins are sumptuous and firm, coated with cranberry and gravelly, stoney fruit. This is a very grown up, complex wine for the long term.
critic reviews
A somewhat controversial Haut-Brion, this wine reached full maturity at a shockingly fast pace and seems now to be giving signs of cracking up. A very earthy, melted asphalt, creosote-like nose intermixed with compost, decaying autumnal vegetation, and herb-tinged fruit is actually more appealing than it might sound. In the mouth the wine is fleshy, medium-bodied, relatively lush, but the garnet color is showing considerable amber, and the finish starts to dry out after the wine sits in the glass for just a mere five minutes. And of course, I have tasted this wine from pristinely stored bottles, so I suspect those that have been less than perfectly stored are probably already in serious decline. Anticipated maturity: Now. Drink up. Last tasted, 11/02.