Château Haut Brion, 1er Cru Classé, Pessac Léognan, 2015

Why oh why can't we sell the Haut Brion and La Mission Haut Brion wines. Year after year they produce exquisite wines from some of Bordeaux's most hallowed terroirs – and mature they are some of our favourite wines to drink. And yet commercially they remain the least sought after of the Firsts and pseudo-Firsts. Perhaps 2015 will be the vintage their fortunes change; they have made a spellbinding range. The 2015 Haut Brion is much more reserved than its neighbour, La Mission. Initially introverted, but with aeration notes of blackcurrant, damp earth, forest fruits and savoury notes of cooked meats and crushed stones emerge. This is a more austere and serious character here which is surprising given the higher proportion of Merlot, but this is often a feature of Haut Brion compared with the flamboyant nature of la Mission. One can tell that there is enormous potential on the palate; cool cassis and crème de mûre with an unbelievably persistent haunting air of cool aristocratic crunchy berry fruit. The tannins are sumptuous and firm, coated with cranberry and gravelly, stoney fruit. This is a very grown up, complex wine for the long term.