Pavillon Blanc du Château Margaux, 2023
The first wine represents 45 percent of production, a higher proportion than average – good news although overall output here of white wine is still pretty miniscule. We fell in love with this instantly and have marked it out as one of the whites of the vintage. Picked from the 23rd of August until the 30th, in the early mornings only to retain fruit freshness, this is a 100% Sauvignon Blanc that is supremely well balanced. Not one element sticks out on the palate, which flows with fresh stone fruit characteristics, herbs and elderflower. Supporting the fruit is just the right amount of body and texture; whilst a fine seam of citrus fruit threads it all together. Long but not overbearing, this is as stylish and neatly-tailored as white Bordeaux gets.
critic reviews
The 2023 Pavillon Blanc was tasted against the 2024 and frankly, I prefer the latter. This does not quite have the same éclat or what you might call “spark.” Pleasant scents of Conference pear and grassy meadow though without the charm of the 2024. The palate is well-balanced with ample weight. A keen line of acidity, meliorating toward a tensile finish with orange pith and green apples, a residue of spice lingering on the finish. It actually finishes on a high. Very fine … but I prefer the 2024.
The 2023 Pavillon Blanc du Chateau Margaux comes bounding out of the glass with exuberant notes of fresh grapefruit, pineapple, and white peaches leading to hints of honeysuckle, orange blossom, and coriander seed with a waft of yuzu. The medium-bodied palate has vivacious citrus and tropical fruit flavors with a racy backbone and long chalky finish. This is delicious! The yield was 37 hl/ha and the pH 3.15.
White peach flesh on the opening gives an opulent start that quickly narrows inwards to flint and steel. An exceptional white wine, with sculpted charm, showcasing citrus, lime zest, green apple, anis and sage. Harvest August 23 to 30, yields 37hl/h compared to 15h/h in 2022.
The 2023 Pavillon Blanc from Chateau Margaux, harvested during the morning hours of the August 23-30 heatwave, possesses a deep, complex bouquet of spring flowers, lemon oil, ripe orchard fruits, lemongrass and sweet gooseberries, followed by a medium to full-bodied, round and concentrated palate that's animated by lively acids, concluding with a long, taut, delicately phenolic finish. This bottling amounts to only 45% of the entire crop, the rest being relegated to a second wine.