Château Montrose, 2ème Cru Classé, St Estèphe, 2003
The nose is remarkable: dark, spiced fruit of huge proportions. The palate yields sweet, ripe black fruits in buckets, the tannins are big but well managed, and the fine terroir comes through on a persistent finish. This is a broad-shouldered wine packed with opulent fruit, in which normal acidity levels go almost unnoticed. Harvested from 11th-26th September and cropped at 33.5hl/ha; a blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon/ 34% Merlot/ 1% Petit Verdot/ 3% Cabernet Franc, aged in 65% new oak. 13% abv.
critic reviews
One of the top half-dozen wines of this torrid vintage in Bordeaux, as well as one of the least evolved, is the 2003 Montrose. Evocative of blackberries and cassis mingled with black truffles, loamy soil and pencil shavings, it's full-bodied, rich and layered, with a broad attack that segues into a supple but structured mid-palate laden with sweet but succulent fruit that's framed by powdery tannin. While in no danger of imminent decline, it's drinking very well today.
This was an extreme vintage, with very little water and very hot. The 2003 Montrose is a blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot. Deep garnet-brick in color, it is a little closed to start off, soon unfurling to deliver evocative creme de cassis, blackberry preserves, and fruitcake scents, giving way to hints of tobacco leaf, new leather, dusty soil, and fennel seed. The medium-bodied palate is completely coated with black fruit and savory layers, supported by firm, chewy tannins and seamless freshness, finishing earthy.
The 2003 Montrose has much more freshness than the 1983 tasted alongside. With blackberry, boysenberry, wilted iris flower, loam and clove, it's pretty complex and certainly more complex than the Lafon Rochet. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy, grippy tannins, powerful and burly. Firm tannins, this is serious and lacks a little flair and charm towards the finish at 20 years of age. Just a bit static at the moment. Tasted at the château.
Famously a successful 2003, due to the location of Montrose next to the river at a spot when the Estuary is opening up, around 3km wide at this point, bringing essential breezes in the heat. There are still some pretty tight tannins even at going on 20 years old, and overall this is just so spicy and yet juicy. Roasted plums and blackberries, liqourice root, pencil lead, spiced cinnamon and turmeric, with fresher bay leaf and saffron notes on the finish. Love it.