Château Phélan Ségur, St Estèphe, 2023
This was our first encounter with a 2023, tasted at Burlington Arcade in late March. Not as profound or as concentrated as some of the excellent recent vintages, nonetheless, there is some really attractive florality and aromas of hedgerow fruit on the nose, backed up on the palate with a good core of bramble and blackcurrant fruit, salts and sweet cherries, all framed by gentle, quite luxuriant tannins. There’s a lovely sense of balance and harmony. If it fills out during élevage, it won’t be far behind the likes of the 2018, 2019 and 2022.
critic reviews
The 2023 Phelan Segur is deep garnet-purple in color. Notes of crushed blackcurrants, fresh blackberries, and Morello cherries hop from the glass, giving way to hints of dried Provence herbs, black pepper, and graphite. The medium-bodied palate is lively and refreshing, with a light chewiness to the tannins and a savory finish. The blend is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot, and 2% Petit Verdot.
Standout quality, delivering squid ink, cocoa bean, espresso, fresh cut herbs, sculpted and impressively confident, with frame and architecture while remaining succulent, and appealing. Will be ready to drink within four or five years of bottling but go for decades. Harvest began here on September 18, with the Cabernets coming in early October, finishing on the 11th (longest harvest on record, 18 days picking over one month). Native yeasts for fermentation after an extensive programme combining many wild yeasts from their vineyard, under the direction of the team Luc Peyronnet and Stéphane Rougé. An exciting estate right now, Philippe Van de Vyvere owner, Veronique Dausse director. Really one to look out for. If you follow my notes I hate saying this, but truly believe this is the best Phélan Ségur that I have tasted En Primeur. 55% new oak for ageing.
The 2023 Phélan Ségur was picked September 18 to October 11 at 52hL/ha and matured in 55% new oak. This has a very pure bouquet. You can actually tell that there is less SO2 being employed here since it displays that strong crushed strawberry fruit, almost confit-like character, turning more floral with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins. This is very well balanced, though not a Phélan Ségur laden with huge concentration (the analytical alcohol is a more restrained 13.54%). There is just a touch of balsamic that perks up the finish, while graphite notes join the chorus line toward the close. Quite an "involving" wine in the cards, this will be fascinating to revisit once in bottle.
A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot, the 2023 Phelan Segur offers up aromas of cassis, dark berries, licorice and toasty new oak, followed by a medium to full-bodied, deep and nicely concentrated palate with plenty of powdery structuring tannin and good length on the finish. It's a strong effort.