Château Smith Haut Lafitte, Grand Cru Classé, Pessac Léognan, 2022
This is clearly a very good Smith Haut Lafitte, but given the recent form, perhaps we expected a bit more. Lots of cool mineral infused fruit, graphite mingles with truffle, smoke and earth. Very clear, sleek, ripe dark fruit, blueberries, blackberries, liquorice and salt lend a warm glowing sensation with quite a lot of grippy wood tannin, hints of toast and coffee bean. It feels like there's a lot of extraction, and although there's a sense of modernity to the winemaking, the flavours are rather classical. Good intensity and well balanced with a large-scale tannic framework. Produced from 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot cropped at 29 hl/ha.
critic reviews
The 2022 Smith Haut-Lafitte has another very refined and sophisticated bouquet, with discreet touches of white pepper and sage that season that black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, very well defined, with a dash of spice towards the peacock's tail finish. Very satisfying and vying for the best Pessac-Léognan in the flight. Tasted blind at the Southwold tasting in London.
This is 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot, and the élevage was in 60% new oak for 18 months. An intriguing nose, dark, brooding, communicating the ripeness of the vintage but it comes with a mildly reductive, matchsticky overlay. There is a crystalline freshness to the ripe berry fruit here, the glassy currant and cranberry notes wrapped up in threads of toast, liquorice, charcoal and mineral. With time it opens out to reveal a powdery, perfumed richness that reminds me of the 2016 vintage. The palate also opens up slowly, reluctantly, but what it offers is consequential, with a ripe and polished tannic frame of impossibly tight-knit tannins, so integrated they feel like a continuous whole wrapped around the palate, and they come draped with a polished, dark and brooding blanket of fruit. A hugely seductive and imposing style, enticing but structured, this is a great Pessac-Léognan which will need a decade or two to show its best, but I expect it will drink well for several decades thereafter. Tasted twice. The alcohol on the label is 14.5%.
This shows reserve on the nose, pared-back elegance, layers of black fruits, violets, peony, spice, liquorice, cocoa bean, mint leaf, lemongrass, beautifully textured and supple tannins. Builds and raises the level of intensity through the palate, creamy black cherry, damson and peach pit also, great tension, chalk, energy, tension, conctration and freshness as the aromatics expand, 60% new oak for ageing, 10% whole bunches fermentation. Sure to age. Fabien Teitgen technical director, Florence and Daniel Cathiard owners.
The 2022 Smith Haut Lafitte opens in the glass with attractive aromas of cassis, spices, tobacco, graphite and licorice, followed by a medium to full-bodied palate that is deep and layered, with good depth and powdery structuring tannins that assert themselves on the finish. This blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot will require some patience, given its somewhat extracted style.