Château Valandraud, Grand Cru Classé, St Émilion,

Inky depths to Valandraud in this vintage, well constructued, intense sweet liqourice and black chocolate, starts out threatening a more old school feel for this wine, with crème de cassis dominant and high alcohols, but it is given focus and lift as it moves through the palate, with lilting aromatics of red roses, welcome pummice stone tannins, squid ink salinity, and mouthwatering freshness. Skilful, confident, impressive. 100% new oak for ageing, Jean-Luc Thunevin owner at this 10.7ha estate (currently replanting several plots, so 6.6ha in production). 40hl/ha yield.

The 2023 Valandraud delivers exactly what you expect on the nose from Jean-Luc Thunevin's crown jewel: very polished scents of black cherries, cassis and crushed violets. One sample had a soupçon of sur-maturité, although another at the château displayed more composure and coolness. The palate is rich and fruit-driven with layers of black fruit. The sample at the château showed more backbone and grip, a healthy sprinkling of cracked black pepper and a long and persistent finish. Give this three to five years, because it is a seriously good Saint-Émilion.