Clos des Quatre Vents, Margaux, 2005

This is Luc Thienpont’s fifth vintage from the small plot of very old vines he bought in Margaux, and the first where he is focused solely on making this great newcomer, having sold Château Labégorce-Zédé last year to the owner of Château Labégorce. The remarkable thing is that there has been no noticeable variation in either quality or style beyond the expression of each vintage, as if Luc were endowed with an intimate knowledge of the terroir and he got it spot on from the first harvest. The 2005 is the best yet, with really lovely cherry and damson fruit on the nose, berries galore, in a sweet and pretty, feminine style. As usual, the cépage in this most elegant of wines remains a bit of a mystery!