Domaine de Chevalier Blanc, Pessac Léognan, 2022
The product of gravelly-clay soils, DDC Blanc is rightly regarded as one of the best whites of Bordeaux. Its fine run of form continues in 2022. As a team, we felt it was up there with the best whites of the vintage. 70% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Semillon, the 2022 was cold settled, fermented and aged in barrel (finally for around 16-18 months) in a third new oak. Expressive yet contoured with alluring ripe citrus and red apples, spearmint, some dried pineapple, a hint of melon and blossom – exuberant in a way and yet it retains impeccable control. Zippy, clean on the finish, with some grip, there is plenty to admire here.
critic reviews
This is a blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Semillon, and the élevage was in close to 40% new oak, for between 16 and 18 months. I like the powdery substance and intensity evident on the nose here, with crushed gravel and citrus fruits, lemon peel, white chocolate and waxy smoke, all delivered with a sense of phenolic maturity. This latter element pervades the palate, which presents lemon meringue and pastry notes, wrapped up with touches of tobacco oak, with a firm central spindle of oak and rather confident acidity which integrates with this delicately bitter grip. Great energy on the finish, with a delineated finish too, the length bitter and acid-washed. This is a very stylish interpretation of the vintage, with maturity and vivacity, and it will develop well. Tasted twice. The alcohol on the label is 13.5%.
The 2022 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc offers more complexity on the nose than the L'Esprit, with scents of yellow fruit, melon and lime. The palate is well balanced with texture, notes of peach skin, pear and a dash of stem ginger, leading to a brisk harmonious finish. Although it does not rank among the best recent vintages due to the limitations of the growing season, this is still a capable Domaine de Chevalier Blanc.
Touch of reduction on the first nose, intense, gunsmoke-filled aromatics, clearly aimed at extremely long ageing. Great quality, stands out for its serious structure, with clove, aniseed and fennel woven through citrus and white pear, has weight and manages to stay on the savoury side of ripe. Needs time and food. Tasted twice. 40th harvest of Olivier Bernard (meaning a special label), 33% new oak.
The 2022 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc offers up aromas of pear, nectarine, crushed mint jasmine and lemon, followed by a medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated palate with a mineral-driven profile. It's lively and bright, with a delicate, penetrating finish animated by racy acids. This blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Semillon, matured entirely in large wooden foudres and 500-liter barrels instead of the traditional barriques, is one of the finest white wines of the vintage, and one of the few that transcends its limitations.