Bourgogne, Blanc, Terroir d'Exception, 2022

Hailing from a plot of 40-year-old vines between Albert Grivault's Clos des Perrières and Perrières itself, Terroir d’Exception has perhaps never tasted more Perrières-like than in 2022. This is a premier cru site if ever you saw one but for the fact that it was a quarry up until 1977, which has meant that it was never classed as such. Aged in 30% new oak. Finer and more mineral than the Limozin poured before, with a cool stoniness focussed around a tight core of crystalline fruit. Refined, composed, class – it finishes on cleansing, salty citrus fruit. Terroir wins out. Marvellous.