Bourgogne, Blanc, Terroir d'Exception, 2023

Crisp and pixellated aromas that precede a mineral-infused palate with stones and a linear, cool drive. Salty, restrained, tightly wound fruit set amongst a very fine structure. This hails from a plot of 40-year-old vines between Albert Grivault's Clos des Perrières and Perrières itself. A premier-cru site if ever you saw one but for the fact that it was a quarry up until 1977, which has meant that it was never classed as such. Aged in 30% new oak.