Clos de Tart, Grand Cru, 2008
The 2008 was fermented with nearly 50% whole bunches, aged in oak barrels for 17 months and bottled without filtration. A powerful complex and very harmonious wine. This is strong but not over-bearing, exhibiting ripe fruit flavours but with a fresh seam of acidity running through it. This is very Burgundian, very Pinot but at the most sophisticated end of the scale, it is beautifully elegant, yet at the same time has the structure to ensure good ageing potential. The nose is particularly floral, even for Clos de Tart, with notes of violet, cherry blossom and rose, whilst the palate displays lush, but crisp cherry,raspberry and blueberry fruit with a damson sweetness, with an earthier background of undergrowth and deep rock minerals. Glorious.
critic reviews
The 2008 Clos de Tart Grand Cru showed well six years ago, but I must confess that this bottle showed a lot of Brettanomyces on the nose, which obscured the fruit and terroir expression. The palate is concentrated and uncharacteristically dense for a 2008, punchy and muscular, missing finesse and very savory on the finish. It's difficult to see where this Clos de Tart is heading, and I reduced my score from six years ago.
Tasted at the pre-dinner vertical to mark Sylvain Pitiot's retirement from the domaine, the 2008 Clos de Tart Grand Cru has an open and generous bouquet with wild brambly fruit, crushed strawberry, mineral and woodland scents. This is gentler than the 2009 or 2010, more open for business perhaps. The palate is (again) wonderfully balanced with rounded tannin. There is a savory edge here, a slight meatiness developing and a suggestion of Italian cured meats towards the finish, plus a saline edge. It feels satisfyingly long in the mouth with spice notes tingling right on the end of the aftertaste. Do not underestimate this excellent Clos de Tart, surely destined to be overshadowed by the 2009.