St Aubin, Murgers des Dents de Chien, 1er Cru, 2023

A sizeable 1.5ha holding in this top St Aubin vineyard, though with a full third of their holdings currently uprooted, to be planted in 2026. Paul Krug favours a small amount of crushing and a gentle but very long pressing, his Champenois roots peeking through, so as to extract plenty of extract and material. This opens up with golden fruit, apricots and pastry, and perhaps its psychosomatic but also a touch of champagne like savoury yeastiness. Golden roasted butter notes on the finish, which is where all the intensity and structure currently reside. Expect this to firm up in bottling and offer lots of character for the appellation.